Darryl Keil Last Activity 2024-04-17 6:18 AM
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CarlMorrell

Posts: 25

Joined: 2010-01-29

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Subject : veneer cracking?
Posted : 2017-11-25 12:04 PM
Post #37673

I just finished my first Louis cube. It looked great. I used walnut, fiddleback maple, and grey dyed birdseye maple. I prefer baltic birch plywood for a substrate, but I am out, and had some 1/2" mdf. Unibond 800, never had any issues with that, I keep it in my refrigerator since this is an occasional hobby for me. It was thick, so I did put more on than usual, since the mdf absorbs alot and I did not want a glue failure. Looked great after removing the tape and sanding. After a few coats of General finishes HP it still looked good. Brought it inside, and after a day, the be maple is all cracked looking. It is not the first time I have used the be maple. Any ideas what went wrong?

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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking?
Posted : 2017-11-25 5:55 PM
Post #37675 - In reply to #37673

Burl veneer has given me a similar experience. The cracking was less the next time when I tried to use what I thought was a thinner layer of glue. I called it extra character.


 
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Enrico Konig

Posts: 74

Joined: 2006-01-06
Location: Vancouver, BC

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking?
Posted : 2017-11-25 7:46 PM
Post #37676 - In reply to #37673

Birdseye is a notoriously difficult wood to veneer with. As are burls. Both are most often radially cut, making them inherently unstable. So as soon as they contact the glue, they dramatically expand because of the moisture in the glue. Then as the urea resin dries and contracts, and as the wood dries and contracts, cracks appear.

There are a few ways to deal with it. For one, don't use too much glue. If you're keeping your urea resin in the fridge to prolong shelf life (which is good practice), let it warm up before mixing so it won't be so thick and difficult to spread.

As far as the cracks go, there are a few good repair options. Cyanoacrylate glue (e.g. Krazy glue) put into the crack and then sanded so that the crack is filled with cyanoacrylate sawdust can work quite well. I believe that is an old woodturner's trick. But if you're dying or staining afterward, the spots where you've done this will not dye the same as the surrounding wood, and can look disastrous. And generally these cracks will become more pronounced because they end up darker.

So in those cases where I am concerned about that, I will use mixed urea resin itself to fill the cracks. Then the cracks will accept the dye and be pretty much invisible. And the urea resin can be colored in the first place so that it matches the wood.

Another trick that Daryl told me about when I was having a similar problem with a coffee table veneered with burl is to surface coat the wood with epoxy. Once cured, the epoxy is basically removed back down to wood, filling any cracks or defects. A card scraper works great for this. Then your normal surface prep and clear coat. This has the added benefit of helping to prevent further checking. But again it will prevent dye penetration so not a good method if you are planning to do that.

Which method works best in any given situation is probably best tested beforehand.

So don't give up on your panel, I think you will be able to fix it.

Good luck.



 
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CarlMorrell

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Joined: 2010-01-29

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking?
Posted : 2017-11-26 11:46 AM
Post #37677 - In reply to #37676

Thanks for the replies. I did have the glue warmed up inside overnight, and the entire setup had a space heater and electric blanket. It was pretty warm.

I did the backside first, walnut. NO bleedthrough and the glue was thick (hard to spread). I attributed (incorrectly) the lack of bleedthrough was due to glue absorption by the mdf. I am pretty sure this failure was due to old glue.

I am going to try sanding the finish off and epoxy fill. Meanwhile, I am thinking of not using unibond 800 any longer and trying powdered glue. Any opinions?

Regards, Carl




 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking?
Posted : 2017-11-26 3:57 PM
Post #37678 - In reply to #37677

After using only powdered urea formaldehyde for a number of years I've decided to switch back to Unibond 800. In part this is because of the cracking I experienced with the European Chestnut burl veneer using powdered.


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1445

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking?
Posted : 2017-11-27 2:01 PM
Post #37680 - In reply to #37677

You’re issue here is the older, thickening glue combined with the density of birdseye maple. When Unibond 800 gets thick its a sign that the shelf life is nearing its end. Adding to this problem, maple, and especially birdseye maple can be difficult to get a good bond with, especially when the glue is thicker. Hard to get good penetration. From the picture, you’re other veneers did fine. Curly maple has a more open structure, due to the curl, than Birdseye, thats why I suspect it bonded OK. The shelf life was still good enough, (although a bit close for my tastes) to get a proper chemical reaction but not enough penetration.

So the question about Unibond 800 vs powdered urea version goes like this. Both are the same type of glue, bond and cure in the same way. Lets look at your situation to compare. Both types have limited shelf life, about a year or less depending on how they are stored. Unibond 800 tells you when the shelf life is up or near, by getting thick. Powered urea has almost no markers to let you know as its in powdered form, cant get thick on you. Had you used powered urea you would have mixed it to the consistency you would consider ideal so penetration would have been good. On the down side you may have ended up with total failure if the shelf life was fully past because the chemical reaction would not have taken place properly, depends on how close to expiration it would have been.

Unibond 800 lets you know when you’re nearing expiration by getting thick. Had you heeded this marker you would have probably gotten new glue and then been fine. There actually is one other thing you could have done, which is too thin your glue with water, but no more than 5%. This would have given you better penetration on the maple. The risk is, is the shelf life up? The only way you could have know was to do a thinned down test on sample and see if you got the proper bond or not. If you did then go ahead and press your real panel. To me its simply not worth it considering the work that goes into preparing veneers for pressing. Get fresh glue. Yes, I sell Unibond 800 so I may be partial to its properties, but having that thickening shelf life marker is very important to me in a urea glue.

Its interesting, I have folks that use powered urea having trouble and switching to Unibond 800 as well as customers using Unibond 800 switching to powdered urea. Its almost alway about preparation and conditions, not one glue over the other. I say this a little sheepishly, (dont want to upset my customers), but its pretty much always about the user and rarely the glue.


 
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CarlMorrell

Posts: 25

Joined: 2010-01-29

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking?
Posted : 2017-11-27 5:34 PM
Post #37681 - In reply to #37680

Darryl,

Thanks for the reply. Glad you are still around. I did do the backside first as a test, I had many indications the glue was too old. (thick and no bleed through) My fault. I have used Unibond (old & new) exclusively. I guess I just need to pre-emptive and place an order for fresh stuff prior to me needing it.

One more question, my Compact 100 has gone through hell. I did clean it out (reeds) last year, but the most I can pull with it is about 22-23 inches. I honestly don't remember how much vacuum I would get when it is new. Should I be thinking about a new pump?

Regards, Carl


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1445

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking?
Posted : 2017-11-28 6:09 AM
Post #37682 - In reply to #37681

You’re well within the normal operating range. When brand new your pump may have gotten an inch or two more of HG but its of no consequence.


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