Darryl Keil Last Activity 2024-10-10 3:42 PM
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ckurak

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Subject : Veneering a bullnose counter edge
Posted : 2011-06-12 7:32 PM
Post #36392
I have a project that includes veneering quilted makore onto an 8' x 2' counter. Three of the edges are straight and will be covered by a backsplash. The fourth edge (front 8') will have a bullnose profile. The counter will be about 1.5" thick with about 1" or so exposed underneath. The cabinetry will hide the rest.

I will be using mahogany veneer on the unseen bottom portion for balance. I plan on using Extira (water-resistant MDF) for the substrate.

I have not yet decided on the actual radius of the bullnose. Although I am guessing that the larger the radius, the easier it will be to wrap the makore veneer around it.

I have a 5'x10' flip-top press, so the counter top should be relatively easy to handle. I do not need to slide it into a bag.

My question is: how do I glue this up? Specifically, how do I do the front curve?

Years ago I tried gluing a similar project up all at once using blue tape to (supposedly) keep the veneer wrapped tightly around the curved edge. It did not work. To fix it, I simply cut off the front edge and attached some closely matching solid wood then applied a profile with a router. I doubt that idea will work with this project. I want the quilted makore to wrap around and under about an inch or so.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Charles


 
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craig tufankjian

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Subject : RE: Veneering a bullnose counter edge
Posted : 2011-06-13 7:47 AM
Post #36393 - In reply to #36392
veneer the flat surface (face) first leaving the bull nose and bottom with no veneer.

when the face is pressed remove from the press and glue the bull nose and the back, wrap the veneer around the bull nose and blue tape in place and put back in the press.

because you have a flip top you will have to elevate the counter top and leave the bull nose section only unsupported so the bag will wrap around the bull nose to be pressed.

If this was a traditional press you would let the bull nose over hang the platen so the bag can form to the bull nose.

note: do not veneer the back first. tape together the makore and the mahogany, press the face side first, you should have about 4 inches of makore and the balance being mahogany that will be wrapped around the bull nose and press to the back

Or... you can do three pressings. makore face first , then wrap bull nose and put back in press, after that's done take out of the press and scab on the mahogany for the back put back in the press. I assume the top will be anchored to the cabinets below so warping will not be a problem.

forgot to ask, is the top solid or front edge built up to 1 1/2?


 
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ckurak

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Subject : RE: Veneering a bullnose counter edge
Posted : 2011-06-14 6:35 AM
Post #36394 - In reply to #36393
Craig,

I was going to make the top solid.

The top will be screwed to the cabinets.


 
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craig tufankjian

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Subject : RE: Veneering a bullnose counter edge
Posted : 2011-06-14 11:13 AM
Post #36395 - In reply to #36394
ckurak,

solid top is good. I have done the procedure with my press but not with a flip top, Because you cant let the bull nose over hang the bottom grooved platen I have to assume you have to elevate the top so the bag can wrap the bull nose. Unless Darryl has a solution for this bull nose pressing in a flip top/ one of Darryl's videos cover the procedure quite well, I believe it outlined veneering crown molding, bull nose shelf, and a round bull nosed table top.

check back in a minute......


 
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ckurak

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Subject : RE: Veneering a bullnose counter edge
Posted : 2011-06-17 7:03 AM
Post #36397 - In reply to #36395
Craig,

Thanks for the reminder about Darryl's video. I have a VHS copy of it. (That may give you an idea of how long ago I bought those videos.) I had to dig out an old VCR to watch it last night. I remembered the board-breaking exercise very well. But probably thought, at the time, that I would never be working with curves. So, I guess my long-term memory did not store the information too well.

Since this will be a bathroom counter, with a sink, I really do not want to use yellow glue. I want to use urea resin glue as insurance against any water ever reaching the glue line. Since urea resin is a rigid glue, I want to ask about the timing on this counter.

I am leaning toward the 3-pressing method that you mentioned in your first post.

Once the urea resin glue is cured, it will be rigid. So, the veneer can no longer be flexed. I believe the key to this is the sample glue in the baggie. Once the glue is rubbery, then I need to quickly proceed to the next step while the veneer is still pliable. This will need to happen twice during the overall process.

Will this work?

Also, will lightly wetting the veneer with a sponge, so it wraps more easily around the bullnose, have any adverse effect on the urea resin glue during this process?

Bonus: For this project, I also have a veneered mirror frame (matches the counter) with a curved profile. The curved moulding technique is covered as well in the video!

Thanks again. And, thanks to Darryl also for the response and the videos.



 
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ckurak

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Subject : RE: Veneering a bullnose counter edge
Posted : 2011-06-24 10:33 PM
Post #36412 - In reply to #36397
I have not started on the bullnose yet, but I did get a prototype for the mirror frame. The frame moulding is 5" wide with a convex and concave surface in the cross section.

I am attaching a photo of the prototype that I completed based on what I learned from Darryl's video and previous veneering experience. I used yellow glue on MDF with quarter-sliced sapele (that's what I had on hand). The actual project (bathroom mirror) will be MDF or Extira with urea resin glue and a polycarbonate finish.

The prototype is 5" wide by 24" long. The actual mirror will be about 4.5' x 3'.

Thanks again, guys!
Attached file : DSC01884B.jpg (5KB - 75 downloads)



 
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craig tufankjian

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Subject : RE: Veneering a bullnose counter edge
Posted : 2011-06-24 10:41 PM
Post #36413 - In reply to #36412
Ckurak,

forgot the photo sir...

update ....ooops photo showed up.... sorry


 
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craig tufankjian

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Subject : RE: Veneering a bullnose counter edge
Posted : 2011-06-27 6:58 PM
Post #36414 - In reply to #36412
Charles,

Based on your description I would veneer the back first. The block up the counter top and dry run the face veneer. the backer veneer can be glued up with PVA glue as it will be buried. Because you will have the counter top screwed to the cabinet you don't need to do the whole lay up at one time.

Using urea throws a little kink in the program but due to the location of the top you have no choice. dont use a platen on the top veneer, rather at the same time put craft paper over the veneer to avoid glue bleed thru from sticking to the bag.


 
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Darryl Keil

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Subject : RE: Veneering a bullnose counter edge
Posted : 2011-06-15 8:06 AM
Post #36396 - In reply to #36394
As Craig said you will need to block up the counter top to wrap the bull nose in a FlipTop. I would get some 2" rigid styrofoam from the lumber yard, 2" should be enough to tuck the bag around the bull nose.

I suggest a dry run to get the feel of it.

Darryl Keil
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