Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-05-12 11:03 AM
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Jason

Posts: 34

Joined: 2010-05-03
Location: Montana

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Subject : The most durable finish for a dining table.
Posted : 2011-02-23 11:08 AM
Post #36290

I am looking for a durable finish for an ebony veneered perimeter leaf table that I am soon to build. I'm not a finishing expert, however, I would like to do the finish work myself. A gloss finish is desired. Can I achieve that look with a hand rubbed technique or is spraying required? I am capable to spray a finish I'm just not sure of which kind... lacquer, conversion varnish, poly etc.


 
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Steven Kenzer

Posts: 57

Joined: 2008-07-16
Location: Putney, VT

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Subject : RE: The most durable finish for a dining table.
Posted : 2011-02-23 5:16 PM
Post #36291 - In reply to #36290

You might consider Behlen's Rockhard Table Top Varnish. Hand applied, it creates a beautiful, rich, deep, amber toned finish..very durable and high gloss, unless you want to rub it out. Frank Pollaro years ago, did an article in Fine Woodworking about this product, showing how he applied and rubbed it out on a very attractive dining table. I actually have the article so will try and attach it here for you. Good luck.


 
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Jason

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Joined: 2010-05-03
Location: Montana

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Subject : RE: The most durable finish for a dining table.
Posted : 2011-02-23 7:06 PM
Post #36292 - In reply to #36291

Thanks for the advice. I'd love to read the article. Have you ever used this varnish?


 
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Steven Kenzer

Posts: 57

Joined: 2008-07-16
Location: Putney, VT

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Subject : RE: The most durable finish for a dining table.
Posted : 2011-02-24 6:22 AM
Post #36294 - In reply to #36292

Jason, I emailed you the article. I assume you got it. It was too large a file to be attached here. Yes, I've used the finish. I found an inexpensive foam brush did a fine job of laying it out. One key is a dust free drying area..this is a slow drying finish. Be sure, if you do try it, to get the solvent Behlen recommends specifically for this product. Good luck.


 
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Jason

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Joined: 2010-05-03
Location: Montana

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Subject : RE: The most durable finish for a dining table.
Posted : 2011-02-27 12:19 PM
Post #36298 - In reply to #36294

Really good article! That is exactly the look I'm wanting. I'm assuming I would apply the same finish and technique for the base? My one concern is the article mentioned the possibility of sanding through a layer of finish and leaving a "ring". If I understood the article you then would have to sand through all previous layers to remedy the problem! Yikes! Did I misinterpret?


 
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Steven Kenzer

Posts: 57

Joined: 2008-07-16
Location: Putney, VT

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Subject : RE: The most durable finish for a dining table.
Posted : 2011-02-27 5:32 PM
Post #36299 - In reply to #36298

No, you didn't misinterpret. That ring is known as a "witness line" and is really the one major drawback of a hand applied varnish finish. Each layer sits on it's own unlike lacquer that melts into each previous coat. You need to be very careful as you rub out the finish to not go through the top coat of varnish. If you do, the only option is to apply another coat and try again. If this becomes a concern of yours, then head towards spraying a conversion varnish. A different look in my opinion, with the conversion varnish not having as rich and deep a look as the more traditional varnish but it is quicker and easier to apply, assuming you have the right spray set up. Again...good luck.


 
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Darryl Keil

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Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: The most durable finish for a dining table.
Posted : 2011-02-24 3:53 PM
Post #36295 - In reply to #36292

Jason,

There are so many finishes on the market and it difficult to keep track of them all. I have not used the finish Steven mentioned so I cannot comment on that one. In general I find finishes with chemical catalysts to give the hardest, most durable surface. One of the reasons I like conversion varnishes. For a gloss finish there are some great automotive products out there. Maybe Craig will chime in, he's fairly knowledgeable with these finishes.

Darryl Keil


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: The most durable finish for a dining table.
Posted : 2011-02-24 7:47 PM
Post #36297 - In reply to #36290

This should start the darts and arrows my way . . .
In general, I'm wondering if we should emphasize less how hard a finish is, and emphasize more that ANY finish can be damaged if mistreated. My concern is that some people may assume that "this is an extremely hard finish" means it's okay to plop down a casserole dish straight from the oven, leave spills on the finish for hours/overnight, play rama-lama-ding-dong on the table with beer mugs, and so on.
Moldern finishes, I'm told, are harder to strip than older finishes, which means they are more expensive to strip. So when (not if) a mistreated finish is damaged, the table is more likely to be thrown away because of the cost to strip and refinish.
My experiements have found that three coats of equal thirds mineral spirits, boiled linseed oil, and P&L 38 varnish (danish oil or oil-varnish blend) didn't mark after a wet coffee mug was left on the surface for more than 30 minutes. It can't chip, because it's too thin to chip. The surface still feels like wood, rather than a film finish. And in 10 years clean well, lightly sand with 400, wipe on another coat and the finish is like new.
A really decorative tabletop? A woodworking store owner here in Cincinnati has said many times when he built his cherry dining table 25 years ago after a thin coat of blo he topped with french polished dewaxed shellac, and hasn't had to touch the finish yet. I'm sure guests get a 5 minute presentation on how to respect fine furniture, but it's still impressive. And like danish oil a shellac finish certainly is easy to touch up or renew when the need arises.
Just another way of looking at the topic.


 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: The most durable finish for a dining table.
Posted : 2011-02-27 9:42 PM
Post #36300 - In reply to #36290

I assume your after a full fill finish. Pollaro's method is nice but labor intensive. If you have spray equipment your half way home. HVLP would be the best but traditional will work as well.It also has a slight amber tint to it.

If you want a finish that will withstand anything use PPG auto clear coat. Global performance coating is the suppliers name. so simple a caveman can do it. two part catalyst, 8 hour dry time. If you can get a air powered jitterbug sander to sand it out it will speed up the polishing.you can use the thinner to reduce the first coat to avoid buying a sealer.

you could also give Polane a try it is available from Sherwin Williams.same process less expensive. 50.00 60.00 a gallon ppg DC-180 is 135.00 gallon plus the catalyst and thinner. link is below


http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:Yfqt9fsv1woJ:www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp%3FSITEID%3DSTORECAT%26prodno%3D035777350164%26doctype%3DPDS%26lang%3DE+polane&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESjkDHTXsq-5G4_C7W3VZBo06yyLAMV3Iimp5IjAkeoSpDuYrx_Rje0XHfNez0xy-Xv_WVYcg1qtJjVfwBUoIEG8i4a6WaniTD8_SaTp84H9Ajpm973jfJumNAN8SJtoJ4GPpvw6&sig=AHIEtbSeenNC_5NgP5nK-46IPdCpPNWH7w
you'll need buffer to bring it to a mirror finish and Finesse-It by 3M buffing compound.

Durability at its best.


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