Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-05-12 11:03 AM
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Roger Ronas

Posts: 3

Joined: 2008-11-21
Location: Colorado Springs, Co.

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Subject : Veneering 1 sided melamine
Posted : 2008-11-22 8:26 PM
Post #35074
When I build my new cabinets I would like to veneer the finished sides that show with a shop made veneer. I will be using 1 sided white melamine interiors and Knotty Pine veneer.
Can I get away with only veneering 1 side?
How thick/thin should I make the veneer?
Does the mel coating on 1 side provide enough (whatever) to prevent warping?
I would like a finished thickness of 3/4" or as close as possible. Either 5/8 substrate with 1/8 venner or 3/4 substrate with 1/16 veneer. Which would be better?

I live in Colorado Springs and iI don't believe humidity is that big of a factor here. Usually in the single digits in the summer and the heat is going in the winter which keeps house pretty dry as well.
I do notice that doors throughout the house do swell a little in the spring.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Roger


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: Veneering 1 sided melamine
Posted : 2008-11-23 11:18 AM
Post #35076 - In reply to #35074
Just curious if you've made some of the knotty pine veneer yet, and how you dealt with incorporated knots. If after sawing the kerf side was dressed with a wide belt sander, seems like at least some of the knots would lift and be shattered. Depending on the resin content of the wood, the sawdust might also quickly clog the sanding belt.


 
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Roger Ronas

Posts: 3

Joined: 2008-11-21
Location: Colorado Springs, Co.

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Subject : RE: Veneering 1 sided melamine
Posted : 2008-11-23 1:19 PM
Post #35077 - In reply to #35076
Thanks Don,
You brought something up I hadn't thought of.
I have not cut veneer yet. Could I cut it thicker 1/8? and apply, then drum sand to thickness? Or can I glue knots in place and then resaw?
Just thinking out loud and have never done any veneering yet.

The reason to use my wood as opposed to purchased veneer is the color in the stuff I have. It's from a fire that chemically changed colors to include blues, oranges, yellows and other colors of the rainbow.

Thanks again,
Roger


 
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BigRob777

Posts: 142

Joined: 2008-05-26
Location: Newark, DE

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Subject : RE: Veneering 1 sided melamine
Posted : 2008-11-23 5:14 PM
Post #35079 - In reply to #35077
The concept of one sided melamine baffles me. What keeps it from cupping? It also sounds like an awesome way to do fast cabinets. Would it cup or bow then, if you laminated the other side? There's still so much I just don't know about veneering.
Thanks,
Rob


 
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Earl

Posts: 75

Joined: 2003-12-04
Location: Pensacola FL

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Subject : RE: Veneering 1 sided melamine
Posted : 2008-11-23 5:47 PM
Post #35082 - In reply to #35077
Roger,

One trick to cutting the veneer slices and maintaining the integrity of the knots would be to apply a pressure sensitive adhesive paper to the face side while cutting and gluing up. Of course this could pose a problem when it comes time to remove paper. It's something to consider and/or experiment with.

Earl


 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: Veneering 1 sided melamine
Posted : 2008-11-23 5:55 PM
Post #35083 - In reply to #35074
why melamine at all? why not plain 5/8 particle board with vertical grade white laminate on the inside. I'd use standard grade myself, which is 1/16th thick and then both sides are balanced.

depending on the size of the cabinets will determine if there is going to be any warping. I doubt the carcass will be affected but what size are your doors on the cabinets?


 
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Roger Ronas

Posts: 3

Joined: 2008-11-21
Location: Colorado Springs, Co.

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Subject : RE: Veneering 1 sided melamine
Posted : 2008-11-23 6:22 PM
Post #35084 - In reply to #35083
Earl,
I like the idea of a pSA paper on face side and will experiment with that.


Craig,
I had thought of lam inside but was trying to eliminate the extra work verses using mel. I think I'm back to white lam on interiors and veneer on the finished sides(outsides).
Doors are no bigger than 18"w x 36"h. and are solid wood panel and frame of some type.

Thanks for the ideas guys,
Roger


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1454

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Veneering 1 sided melamine
Posted : 2008-11-25 7:52 PM
Post #35088 - In reply to #35084
Roger,

You've gotten some good advice here to the number one asked question, let me add this.

Of all the different panels you could veneer only one side on and get away with it, doors are not on my list. Because doors are free swinging with no other attachment except the hinges, any warping caused by one sided veneering will tend to show since doors have nothing holding them in a fixed way. A side panel or top can be secured to minimize and movement. Just because your panel will have melamine on one side does not stop the effect of shrinkage from veneering only one side.

Darryl Keil


 
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iain

Posts: 1

Joined: 2008-12-08

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Subject : RE: Veneering 1 sided melamine
Posted : 2008-12-08 4:41 AM
Post #35114 - In reply to #35088
Hello i've just joined your forum and i'll fill in my bits later.

I done a fair bit of veneering on one side of melamine cabinets, all with hand made veneers.

Some times i take the melamine off some times just rough it up to key the surface, it depends on the strength of the veneer (very heavy spalt has little pulling power).

Its important to either finish the job through to top coat ASAP or dead stack untill you are ready to finish, (i use 3, 4 or 5 coats of Junkers 625).
Doors MUST be balanced with veneers of abount the same pulling power, it also looks good to the customer when the door is opened, i use either 15mm birch ply or 15mm mdf as the cores.

I pick up a nice number of jobs veneering Ikea cabinet sides, and making doors for the cabinets.

I've got pics of a couple of the veneered cabs on my web site, and they are the pic on two of my buisness cards.

http://www1.clikpic.com/leafbone/photo_585499.html

The address should take you to a veneered Ikea cab,
i cut those veneers on the Woodmizer and prepared and finished them by hand with a 4" belt sander.

I've got a Dankart bandsaw for cutting in the workshop now, and a nice wide belt to help with the prep work.

I will have a look through the rest of the forum now as o came to thia page from Google (fourth from top of search)


Iain
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