Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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jeremiah

Posts: 3

Joined: 2008-06-30
Location: LA,CA

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Subject : thick veneer for tabletop
Posted : 2008-06-30 3:09 PM
Post #34656
Greetings, I am planning a dining table in which exposed plywood edges will be visable.
I want to avoid using a normal mahagony ply for two reasons, 1. the plys are not the attractive multi/ply type or "euro-ply look" 2. the veneer is too thin for durability issues.
Unless someone knows of a suitable plywood for this application I will need to make my own. I have a big vac press bag so i'm set there.
My question is this. How thick can I go on the veneer for europly substate? Is 1/8 too thick?
Also, how do I know if my uni-bond is too old to use(2.5 years old)

Thanks for any input.
jeremiah




 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: thick veneer for tabletop
Posted : 2008-06-30 3:24 PM
Post #34657 - In reply to #34656
jeremiah,

you might want to look at apple ply or russian birch ply wood. this is the plywood used for drawers and a has a high ply count. very stable as well.


 
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jeremiah

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Joined: 2008-06-30
Location: LA,CA

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Subject : RE: thick veneer for tabletop
Posted : 2008-06-30 3:31 PM
Post #34658 - In reply to #34657
thanks Craig,
the high ply count type stuff is what I want to use for sure. My inexperience with veneering has me wondering how thick of veneer i can go on both sides of this type of ply?


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: thick veneer for tabletop
Posted : 2008-06-30 4:15 PM
Post #34659 - In reply to #34658
1/8" skins should be fine. Just balance them.

And 2 1/2 years is long enough that I would recommend throwing out your Unibond. Don't take a chance.




 
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Jeff Patrick


Joined: 2004-04-15
Location: Bainbridge Island, WA

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Subject : RE: thick veneer for tabletop
Posted : 2008-07-01 1:27 PM
Post #34665 - In reply to #34658
I've experienced failure with 1/8" veneer. In one instance it was over mdf. The glue didn't fail but the mdf was pulled apart by the veneer cupping. The other was over birch or maple veneered plywood... good cabinet grade material, not shop grade. In that instance the veneer didn't come completely loose but it did seem to cup and the seams opened up. I've since used 3/32" veneer with good results. Based on my own experience I prefer to stick to 1/16 thick which can be purchased commercially in a variety, though not all, species.

In your use, I'd think that an 1/8" veneer would look a bit thick and out of proportion over and under the very thin inner plys that Apple Ply or Baltic Birch have.


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: thick veneer for tabletop
Posted : 2008-06-30 4:43 PM
Post #34661 - In reply to #34656
Jeremiah,

Like Brian said, chuck it. After 2 1/2 years there is no chance the glue is still good. If it was 2 years or less you check by viscosity. If the glue is like maple syrup your good, like cold honey, no good. I cant imagine glue as old as yours still being like maple syrup.

Darryl


 
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jeremiah

Posts: 3

Joined: 2008-06-30
Location: LA,CA

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Subject : RE: thick veneer for tabletop
Posted : 2008-06-30 5:05 PM
Post #34662 - In reply to #34661
Thanks for the advice.
So the catalyst and blocker powders are OK don't you think..
Just the resin should be pitched?
Jeremiah


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: thick veneer for tabletop
Posted : 2008-06-30 7:14 PM
Post #34663 - In reply to #34662
I would pitch the catalyst, as well.

They are packaged in correct ratios to each other, so even if the catalyst is fine, why use old stuff when you will be getting new stuff, along with the new resin?

I can't speak to the blocker powders.


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: thick veneer for tabletop
Posted : 2008-06-30 8:55 PM
Post #34664 - In reply to #34662
Blocker is fine, has absolutely no shelf life.

Darryl
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