Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
7 replies, 3661 viewings
 
back
Navigate threads:
< Previous Thread :: Next Thread >
 
^ Top
Alan Young

Posts: 6

Joined: 2006-04-12

User Profile 
Subject : Titebond "Dark Wood Glue" Bleed through
Posted : 2008-10-23 11:09 AM
Post #34995
I have been using Titebond Liquid Hide Glue for vacuum veneering until a recent project when I decided to try Titebond "Dark Wood Glue". I had heard of others using PVA with no problems and the Sales pitch at Titebond says it is unaffected by finishes. I think they should have said whether or not the finish is affected-I veneered several door panels of Sapele with the PVA Dark Wood Glue and the bleed through is blotching the finish. My experience with the hide glue was never a problem. Do I have any choices but to re-veneer? If not should I remove the first layer or can I apply a second layer of veneer using Hide glue over the first layer of PVA?

Thanks for the help

Alan



 
^ Top
Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Titebond "Dark Wood Glue" Bleed through
Posted : 2008-10-23 3:57 PM
Post #34996 - In reply to #34995
Alan:

The bleed-thru should be mainly on the surface of your veneer. Your post didn't indicate how thoroughly you sanded before finishing, or what your finishing schedule was, but can you sand back the finish to raw veneer? If so, make up a sample by wiping a bit of the Titebond glue on some scrap wood and when dry try wiping the surface with naptha or lacquer thinner to see if it highlights the glue. If so, you can try sanding your panel with 150 or 220 grit sandpaper and wiping to see if you can remove all the bleed through without sanding through the veneer.

I always see some bleedthrough as shiny spots on the surface of the veneer after vacuum pressing, but they are removed during normal sanding of the veneer to prepare for finishing. (I am using urea formaldehyde and not a pva adhesive.)


 
^ Top
Alan Young

Posts: 6

Joined: 2006-04-12

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Titebond "Dark Wood Glue" Bleed through
Posted : 2008-10-23 4:40 PM
Post #34997 - In reply to #34996
Don,

I did sand before applying the finish but this is fairly thin veneer and I didn't want to sand through it. I'll attempt another surface sanding and see if removes the surface glue...
Thanks,
Alan


 
^ Top
Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Titebond "Dark Wood Glue" Bleed through
Posted : 2008-10-24 6:04 PM
Post #35000 - In reply to #34997
I've been purchasing veneers for several years with complete satisfaction from Certainly Wood. I'm guessing that their typical veneer is 1/40" thick which sounds like nothing, but I've been able to sand within reason starting sometimes with 80 grit, always with 150 and then 220 grit, and can't recall sand throughs. I have seen some packaged small quantities of veneer that are much thinner and I'd be afraid to sand them at all. This especially applies to paper backed veneer, but as you had some bleed through its unlikely you were using paper backed. Keep the faith.


 
^ Top
Gerry

Posts: 8

Joined: 2008-08-10

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Titebond "Dark Wood Glue" Bleed through
Posted : 2008-10-24 9:17 PM
Post #35001 - In reply to #35000
You might want to try Titebond Cold Press veneer glue. Should be far less prone to bleed through.


 
^ Top
Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Titebond "Dark Wood Glue" Bleed through
Posted : 2008-10-26 12:44 PM
Post #35002 - In reply to #34997
Another option would be to switch to urea formaldehyde glue. I'm not concerned about the minimal possible exposure to formaldehyde from off-gassing of small quantities of glued veneer - a complete room wrapped with floor-to-ceiling veneered panels would cause me to ask a couple questions.

I've had the liquid resin keep for more than a year without problems in a small "bar" fridge, and the glue can be tinted to various shades in addition to the powdered catalyst colors.

When chucked in a cordless drill, a whisk from a kitchen hand mixer is a great way to mix the resin and catalyst. I've taken to mixing in a "medium" cardboard drink cup to minimize water needed for cleanup. Simply pour the mixed glue onto the substrate and spread with a 4" or 12" black foam paint roller pad and toss the pad. Pour some of the excess glue from the cup into a baggie to monitor the curing rate, and toss the cup and remaining glue.

Another option for you.


 
^ Top
Alan Young

Posts: 6

Joined: 2006-04-12

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Titebond "Dark Wood Glue" Bleed through
Posted : 2008-10-27 11:35 AM
Post #35003 - In reply to #34995
Thanks for all the informative answers. As it turns out-- a more thorough sanding and scraping removed the bleed through. Otherwise the information provided will help me in future pressings.

Thanks

Alan


 
^ Top
Brad

Posts: 87

Joined: 2008-04-22

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Titebond "Dark Wood Glue" Bleed through
Posted : 2008-10-30 5:36 PM
Post #35008 - In reply to #35003
I know everybody thinks 1/42" is thin, but I know I tried sanding through with my OS, and it takes quite a bit of time. Now the belt sander will make a mess in a hurry.

Brad
back
Navigate threads:
< Previous Thread :: Next Thread >
Legend      Notification  
Administrator
Forum Moderator
Registered User
Unregistered User
 Toggle e-mail notification


Logo by MAZY
Running MegaBBS ASP Forum Software v1.5.14b public beta