Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-02-12 2:48 PM
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Frank Seidel

Posts: 13

Joined: 2006-12-15
Location: Saxony, Germany

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Subject : Sanding Epoxy
Posted : 2007-03-02 2:43 PM
Post #33669

Using Epoxy as a grainfiller seemed to be a practical solution to me for achieving really smooth surfaces. Contrary to a coloured grainfiller (which is, by the way, difficult to get here in Germany) it doesn´t interfere with the natural colour of the wood.
Application proved to be very simple, but trying to sand it all out took all my nerves because the Epoxy terribly gums the sandpaper. So I asked an expert how to solve the problem (choosing different types of sandpaper and so forth) and he suggested scrubbing the piece with soap before sanding it and thereby removing the stuff that clogs the sandpaper.
Has anybody of you guys been trying this out?


 
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Tom Hirsz

Posts: 5

Joined: 2007-03-02
Location: Toronto, Ont. CANADA

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Subject : RE: Sanding Epoxy
Posted : 2007-03-02 7:55 PM
Post #33670 - In reply to #33669

I have heard of this as well. Some manufacturers disclose this, others don't. I had the same problem while levelling a poured-on epoxy finish. It seemed to me that the epoxy wasn't completely cured, still gummy after 2 days. I did my best, then top coated with Fuhr 255 urethane and it looks great. Next time I will try washing it first. Epoxy and polyesters apparently take a long time to completely cure.


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1454

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Sanding Epoxy
Posted : 2007-03-03 1:00 PM
Post #33671 - In reply to #33669

Frank,

I cant say I understand the chemistry of epoxy but some brands have more of whats called "blush" than others when they cure. The more blush the more difficult is it to sand and requires more scrubbing with soap and water to remove what gums up the sandpaper. Once its removed sanding is goes fairly well. I have found MAS brand epoxy has next to no blush and sands god without the scrubbing, although I still do it anyway.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Peter Halle

Posts: 1

Joined: 2006-03-11
Location: Powhatan, VA

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Subject : RE: Sanding Epoxy
Posted : 2007-03-05 4:09 AM
Post #33673 - In reply to #33669

There are different types of epoxies and polyester resins. Some have a wax or product mixed in with them that will rise to the surface and seal the product from air - the culprit in not allowing the product to cure hard. Laminating epoxies and resins do not have them. That allows you to avoid the sanding step for the next layer. Look for polyvinyl alcohol at a boating supply store or boatersworld.com. Spray it on the epoxy with a windex type bottle, wait, then wipe off with water or soap and water. PVA is used as a mold release agent for forms in the fiberglass industry.


 
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Jim Clement

Posts: 18

Joined: 2007-03-06
Location: Seattle

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Subject : RE: Sanding Epoxy
Posted : 2007-03-06 10:05 AM
Post #33685 - In reply to #33669

I've been trying to figure this out too. Here's an article I just found: http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/17/wetsand.html



 
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John Van Brussel

Posts: 3

Joined: 2007-07-06
Location: Buffalo, NY

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Subject : RE: Sanding Epoxy
Posted : 2007-07-06 9:50 AM
Post #33931 - In reply to #33669

Sounds like you didn't mix enough hardener into the resin. I had the same thing happen when helping my father build a kayak. It never got hard enough to sand properly and had to be stripped and redone.


 
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Bruce Berman

Posts: 20

Joined: 2005-06-01
Location: Pittsburgh, Pa., USA

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Subject : RE: Sanding Epoxy
Posted : 2007-07-07 11:51 AM
Post #33934 - In reply to #33669

Frank,
Let me give you a few comments on epoxy as a filler. WE have used epoxy as a filler when finishing panels of mixed woods with diffferent colors.
1. Many epoxies will have a color reaction with the fruitwoods like cherry and pear causing a deepening of the color of the wood that is significantly different from that of the finish on wood. So do a test panel with 1/2 filled with epoxy and one half without to see any finish variations.
2. Most epoxies are harder than the woods we work with. So with veneer this could be a little tricky. We made up a wide flexible squeegee that spreads the epoxy flat with the surface. Lubricate the squeegee with mineral spirits. You can then let the epoxy then level out with a minimal coverage.
3. When we did this the last time, which was a few years back, we found that the one of the "table top" epoxies sanded off really easily without filling the sand paper. It was not very hard at all but filled well. We could sand down to the wood very smoothly with out worrying too much about going through the veneer. It is definitly a lot of extra work but for an important multiwood surface that requires a smooth ungrained surface it works really well.
PS. Remember to sand down to the wood except for the pores. Lacquer adheres mechanically to epoxy so if you have wide surfaces of epoxy on the surface of you wood you can have long term adhesion problems with your final finish. The sanded epoxy provides for a good bond at first but can delaminate later. If you have a continuous epoxy layer One of the modern vinyl sealers, thinned down a bit, might make a good interface. Calling the epoxy manufacturers is surprisingly little help on the subject so usually you have to do your own research.

Good Luck
Bruce Berman
The Miracle Veneer Trimmer


 
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russell lechelt

Posts: 1

Joined: 2007-07-10
Location: pacifica,ca

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Subject : RE: Sanding Epoxy
Posted : 2007-07-10 2:33 PM
Post #33940 - In reply to #33669

epoxy as grain filler:
I use system 3 t-88, it is clear, has minimal blush, mixes 1 to 1 and is easy to find in california.It is slow cure.
Mix the epoxy and coat the whole surface.Then use a hair dryer on high to lower the viscosity of the resin for better pore penetration. Heat and hand scrape(credit card) the epoxy for 10 minutes.Remove excess resin with the hand scraper and wipe dry with paper towels.Let dry 24 hours(70 degrees warmer or more). When the epoxy is hard it is easy to sand to the surface of the wood.Two applications are needed for woods like mahogany.This fills the pores reducing the number of finish coats needed for leveling.


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