Darryl Keil Last Activity 2024-10-10 3:42 PM
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Michael

 
Subject : Cross banding
Posted : 2005-09-08 9:00 AM
Post #32374
I am pretty new in veneering and recently got a job to lay-up several 3/4" x 36" x 96" door/wall panels. I plan to use 1/2" ultra light mdf with ½” x 2" mahogany banding. The face veneer is to have an "X" pattern with each adjacent quadrants grain perpendicular to the next. I will be kerfing the "X" joints and filling with black Corion seam filler. I planned to use 1/16" thick veneer to allow enough material to sand any of the seam filler’s spillover out of the grain . The back of the doors are to have just one solid vertical face.
My concern is the cross banding. With the face veneers running in two directions, what direction would the cross band go?

Any input would be appreciated.



 
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Earl

Posts: 75

Joined: 2003-12-04
Location: Pensacola FL

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Subject : RE: Cross banding
Posted : 2005-09-10 12:42 PM
Post #32378 - In reply to #32374
Michael, you might not need a crossbanding. But are your panels attached in any way? If by crossbanding you mean an underlayment? I would run the grain across the width of the panel, on both sides, perpendicular to the vertical back.

I would not use the Corian glue material for inlay. You have two very different density and hardness of materials, and I believe it will give you trouble trying to get a truly flat inlay. I would inlay or tape up the panel with Wenge or Ebony veneer.

A word of caution. These are pretty big panels, make absolutely sure you vacuum press table is flat with no dip or bow. Or it will transfer into your panels. And of course the back has to be the same thickness veneer as the front.


 
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Michael

 
Subject : RE: Cross banding
Posted : 2005-09-10 1:29 PM
Post #32379 - In reply to #32378
Thank you for the help. We did do a small sample with the corian and it seamed to sand out very well. I will try a larger sample to make sure. By cross banding I meant the sub layer of veneer run perpendicular the face. Is that what the underlayment is?

Thanks again for the reply.


 
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Earl

Posts: 75

Joined: 2003-12-04
Location: Pensacola FL

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Subject : RE: Cross banding
Posted : 2005-09-10 3:50 PM
Post #32380 - In reply to #32379
Yes, in other words, you'll have a 5 ply layup. And I would run it the same front and back, perpendicular to the back vertical grain. I think, before I did all the pieces I would do one and let it sit, allow for air movement, I would sticker top and bottom and place cover and weight on top. Check it after a min of 2-3 days if not a week and see if it's still flat. I would do that just for safety sake, wouldn't want to do them all and find out there's a problem.


 
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Michael

 
Subject : RE: Cross banding
Posted : 2005-09-10 5:45 PM
Post #32381 - In reply to #32380
I will make one of the doors before I even start the project.
Thanks again,
Mike


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1453

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Cross banding
Posted : 2005-09-10 6:48 PM
Post #32383 - In reply to #32381
Michael,

If you are going to cross band Earl's advise is what I would do.

My question is this, why do you want to cross band in the first place? If you are gluing to MDF I'm not sure I see the reason unless you are veneering over the solid edge banding.

Also, your panel is a bit thin at 1/2" for the overall size of your panel in my opinion. Why not go to 3/4". Thinner the panel harder it is to keep flat. Of course I am not seeing the whole picture here but these are my thoughts.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Michael

 
Subject : RE: Cross banding
Posted : 2005-09-11 8:58 PM
Post #32386 - In reply to #32383
Darryl,
I am edge banding with 2" mahogany. They are doors that are to look like wall panels. The 1/2" mdf was figured because of the four layers of 1/16" thick veneers. I planned to use thick veneer to allow enough material to sand any of the seam kit that may get into the mahogany's deep grain.


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : Re: Edge Banding
Posted : 2005-09-12 7:37 PM
Post #32392 - In reply to #32374
Michael:

You would save a lot of time and trouble with a different method for the seam accent. Get a copy of Paul Schurch's video. It will clearly demonstrate how to lay up the face veneers with an "inlaid" accent strip of black or other color wood veneer incorporated in the taping step. The strip of accent can be whatever width you desire - I have cut strips as thin as 1/32" and incorporated them in this way. You'll be able to use standard raw veneer rather than the thicker 1/16", won't have to worry about keeping the kerf perfectly straight, won't have to sand seam filler out of the pores, won't have to worry about conflicts down the road between veneer and seam filler, ...
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