Darryl Keil Last Activity 2024-10-10 3:42 PM
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Jim Ritch

Posts: 16

Joined: 2010-06-25
Location: Dahlonega, GA

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Subject : Potential Warping
Posted : 2016-11-14 7:46 AM
Post #37537

I am in the planning stage of reproducing an antique southern huntboard (similar to a sideboard) out of walnut. My questions concern the top of the piece which will be approximately 5 feet by 2 feet. I intend to veneer the top and will be using a backer veneer on the underside of the top.

Question: I am leaning toward 3/4" Baltic Birch for the substrate because of weight and superior screw holding power. I would like the top to be about 1" thick. Anyone have any thoughts on laminating a 1/4" piece of MDF on top of the Baltic Birch? I will be using 3/4" plywood and 1/4" MDF in other parts of the project which is one reason for this question.

Secondly, if I veneer the MDF to the plywood do I run the risk of warping the plywood before I even get to the point of gluing the veneers to the top and bottom? Or...should I glue the backer veneer at the same time I glue on the MDF and before gluing the top veneer?

Hope these convoluted questions make sense. Thanks for any advice.



 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1453

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Potential Warping
Posted : 2016-11-14 9:20 AM
Post #37538 - In reply to #37537

Gluing 1/4" to 3/4" will definitely be unbalanced and warp. I would go, two 1/4" on either side of 1/2" or two 1/8" on 3/4". Whether you veneer it at the same time or later will not affect flatness. Personally, I prefer to do the veneering in a second step.


 
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Jim Ritch

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Joined: 2010-06-25
Location: Dahlonega, GA

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Subject : RE: Potential Warping
Posted : 2016-11-14 11:43 AM
Post #37539 - In reply to #37538

Darryl, thank you for your reply. Will certainly follow your advice.


 
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Don Stephan

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Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: Potential Warping
Posted : 2016-11-14 6:38 PM
Post #37540 - In reply to #37537

If I may ask, why use MDF for the top surface of the core? Can't recall ever having Baltic birch telegraph any irregularity through the veneer. If that were a concern, one could make a two ply for the upper and lower surfaces to bridge any surface irregularity.

Although harder to find, Baltic birch is made to 1" thickness, or one could laminate two layers of 1/2". This would give you the best screw holding capability too.


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1453

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Potential Warping
Posted : 2016-11-18 3:26 PM
Post #37542 - In reply to #37540

I used to use a product that I really liked with the face layer on each side being 3/23" MDF and the core plywood. I like the omni directional surface of MDF, the screw holding ability, lighter weight and no sag of plywood. This product was the best of both worlds in my opinion.

I find baltic birch fairly susceptible to some warping although two layers glued together would probably be pretty stable.


 
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Jeff Patrick


Joined: 2004-04-15
Location: Bainbridge Island, WA

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Subject : RE: Potential Warping
Posted : 2016-11-17 8:22 PM
Post #37541 - In reply to #37537

I have and would glue two sheets of 1/2" baltic birch together to get the 1" thick substrate. Jeff


 
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Jim Ritch

Posts: 16

Joined: 2010-06-25
Location: Dahlonega, GA

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Subject : RE: Potential Warping
Posted : 2016-11-24 7:29 AM
Post #37543 - In reply to #37541

Thank you all for the comments regarding the substrate for my project. I have decided to use the combination of 1/2" Baltic Birch sandwiched between 1/4" MDF to achieve my 1" top. My reasoning is two-fold:

First, I am cheap enough that I am trying to utilize materials that I will also be using in other parts of the project, namely the 1/2" BB (main shelf) and the 1/4" MDF (some veneered panels).

Secondly, I have reached the age (75) that man-handling sheets of plywood is a struggle; yes, even 1/2" and 1/4". You may have noticed in my initial query, that I was using 3/4" BB. After Darryl's suggestion I was quite happy to downsize to 1/2".

Again, thank you.



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