Darryl Keil Last Activity 2024-10-10 3:42 PM
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jerry

Posts: 23

Joined: 2007-02-22

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Subject : bondo
Posted : 2015-11-22 4:52 PM
Post #37353

i'm pretty sure i read here that you do not recommend bondo to fill in voids on the back side of veneers that will be pressed to unibond.
i just learned that bondo makes a product for wood - rather than metal filling - any information on the wood bondo?
wondering if there is a difference and would be more friendly to a unibond press.
thanks
jerry


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: bondo
Posted : 2015-11-23 7:09 PM
Post #37355 - In reply to #37353

Not sure I've encountered commercial veneer with a void that needed filling. Can you describe your veneer - thickness, species, the defect, . .


 
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jerry

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Subject : RE: bondo
Posted : 2015-11-23 10:17 PM
Post #37358 - In reply to #37355

sorry about not more information. it's home cut veneer - 5/64 - primarily used for marquetry - once the image is done the backs are not perfectly level/flat and needs a bit of fill before vacuuming.
jerry


 
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Darryl Keil

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Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: bondo
Posted : 2015-11-24 7:17 AM
Post #37359 - In reply to #37353

Standard bondo is not compatible with Unibond 800 and I dont know about the "wood" bondo you talk about. I recommend Durhams Rock Hard Water Putty. Works well with Unibond 800.


 
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jerry

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Subject : RE: bondo
Posted : 2015-11-24 10:28 AM
Post #37360 - In reply to #37359

thanks darryl - i have been using durhams - was just wondering
jerry


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: bondo
Posted : 2015-11-24 6:59 PM
Post #37362 - In reply to #37353

Jerry

When I am using several different veneers together, in the vacuum bag on top of the project and a layer of plastic sheet I'll spread a thick cotton canvas, some use a thick rubber sheet. The top caul goes on top of the canvas/rubber.

The canvas/rubber is intended to compress enough over any thicker veneer to approximately make co-planar the backs of the various pieces of veneer so there is a more even layer of adhesive between the veneers and the substrate.

You can find the "bushing" canvas in the on-line store at www.schurchwoodwork.com and details on the rubber sheet by searching on this forum.

If you are going to try either the canvas or rubber, I'd suggest a test using a marquetry pattern with your usual veneers; after the glue has cured, cut into pieces and try to pry off the different pieces to see if you obtained good adhesion throughout.

Personally, I wouldn't be comfortable troweling Durham's over the back of an assembled marquetry pattern.


 
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jerry

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Joined: 2007-02-22

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Subject : RE: bondo
Posted : 2015-11-28 11:02 AM
Post #37385 - In reply to #37362

i've been using durham's to fill divots on the back side of marquetry for several years - especially when a softer species of wood compresses - have never had any problems. again - this is on home cut veneers - 5/64 - using the double bevel method of cutting.

the only caution i have learned is to keep the piece flat while the durham dries.
jerry


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