Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-02-12 2:48 PM
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Kevin McCabe

Posts: 7

Joined: 2010-04-13
Location: Eureka Springs, AR

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Subject : Best wood for curved work?
Posted : 2010-04-29 12:19 PM
Post #35996
Darryl,
You may remember me from an earlier post. I'm the crazy beginner that's going to try to put veneer on his motorcycle. I've been doing quite a bit of research online the last couple of weeks and I think I just have one more question before I start ordering all my equipment next week. I'm hoping to use Bulbinga burl as my finish veneer. I love the contrasts in color and orientation of the grain. I believe I'll need a backer veneer (hopefully cheaper) between the metal substrate and the finish veneer. I was hoping that you could recommend a backer with similar grain orientation. Should it be burl as well?
Also, I've been perusing through the archives( what a wealth of information) and I noticed that Don Stephan recommended your second video about a dozen times in reference to curved work, so I definitely plan on getting that one but I was hoping you could suggest another video and especially a book or two. After looking through the archives I certainly value your opinion and look forward to seeing your video and receiving any assistance you can give. Thanks again.

Your loyal fan,
Kevin McCabe



 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: Best wood for curved work?
Posted : 2010-04-30 6:31 PM
Post #35998 - In reply to #35996
Kevin:
There may be some new book and/or video resources available now, I haven't paid too much attention in the last year. I did see one new book a few months ago but was not impressed by it. Don't remember the title or author.
I still think some of the best learning and reference materials are the two videos by Darryl and the two by Paul Schurch. Haven't seen Paul's second, but I'm sure it's the same quality as the first. You will see some overlap between each person's first video, but I find the repetition and different presentations an advantage.
Happy veneering.


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1454

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Best wood for curved work?
Posted : 2010-05-01 3:53 PM
Post #35999 - In reply to #35996
Kevin,

If I was going to use a backer my choice would be mahogany, nice and stable. I would definitely not use another burl as the backer. You want something stable between the metal and burl and another burl will not give you good stability.

My second video will definitely offer some assistance around your particular application but veneering gas tanks or even metal shaped objects are not in my video and unlikely to be in any other video or book. Probably Paul Schurch's video's is what I would recommend. I've only seen one of them so I dont know what his second one is like.

When you get a little closer to actually applying veneer I have some tips that should help you with your particular project. Getting the veneer to wrap around compound curves will be a challenge.

Darryl Keil


 
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Kevin McCabe

Posts: 7

Joined: 2010-04-13
Location: Eureka Springs, AR

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Subject : RE: Best wood for curved work?
Posted : 2010-05-08 3:51 PM
Post #36006 - In reply to #35999
Daryl & Dan,
Thank you guys so much for your help. This has been an idea I've been rolling over for several years now and have finally saved the money and gotten the motivation to actually begin. Your guys, as well as the forum itself, help has been immeasurable. I think I'm comfortable enough now to start ordering all my equipment Monday. I'm really excited and look forward to learning more from your videos and future correspondence.

Thanks again,
Kevin McCabe


 
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Ken Thayer

Posts: 12

Joined: 2010-04-13

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Subject : RE: Best wood for curved work?
Posted : 2010-05-21 5:29 PM
Post #36037 - In reply to #36006
Intreguing idea. I'm too new at this to even think much about it, but will you have to fill the tank with something to keep it from collapsing, or is that a concern?


 
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Kevin McCabe

Posts: 7

Joined: 2010-04-13
Location: Eureka Springs, AR

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Subject : RE: Best wood for curved work?
Posted : 2010-06-29 5:45 PM
Post #36081 - In reply to #35999
Darryl,
I've received my Vacupress system and am gnawing at the bit to get started. I very much enjoyed your video, however, your a bit older than I imagined...just kidding. It was very detailed ,yet easy to follow, and answered alot of my questions. However,I have had some problems getting the correct replacement tank for my bike, and working 15 hr days with tourist season in full swing here in Eureka Springs, AR, i've gotten off to a slow start. I visited my painter the other day and he told me it would be much easier(and cheaper) to place the veneer directly on top of the paint, rather than stripping it away. I assumed that the Ultra-CAT PPR(a powdered urea resin glue), intended for metal substrate, would actually need to be in contact with the metal. Would you agree? If so is there another type of poxy that would be as effective? I plan on trying it on my practice tank both ways just to see what happens. As always I value your input. Thank you very much,

Kevin


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1454

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Best wood for curved work?
Posted : 2010-06-29 9:26 PM
Post #36082 - In reply to #36081
Kevin,

I dont know who told you that powdered urea resin glue will stick to metal, much less paint, because it absolutely will not and no manufacturer that actually makes the stuff would tell you that or stand behind it for this application. All urea formaldehyde resin glues, powdered or liquid type, need porous surfaces to absorb into. For the most part wood to wood bonding. There is no such thing as a urea glue for metal bonding. I'm not saying it wont bond at all but not well enough for me to take a chance with.

Your only two options for this application is epoxy or polyurethane. As far as bonding to the paint, both of these glues will do that provided you give a very thorough rough sanding. The issue comes down to how well is the paint bonded to the metal since your veneer will be bonded to the paint. I would assume that the glue bond between the veneer and paint will be stronger than the paint bond to the tank so it will be this paint bond that you will be depending on to hold your veneer to the tank. Something to think about.

Darryl Keil
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