Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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sather

Posts: 2

Joined: 2006-10-27

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Subject : Gluing Teak
Posted : 2006-10-27 11:08 AM
Post #33423

I am making an outdoor table out of a waterproof substrate (rangerboard) and need to glue 1/10 teak to both sides. I have done this before with other woods, but never for outdoor use. Should I be using an epoxy like West Systems, or something else? West Systems had complicated instructions for gluing teak, so it led me to think it didn't work so well. I learned that weldwood recorcinol works okay, but I have no experience with it.


 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: Gluing Teak
Posted : 2006-10-27 11:16 AM
Post #33424 - In reply to #33423

gorilla glue. its a polyurethane glue


 
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sather

Posts: 2

Joined: 2006-10-27

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Subject : RE: Gluing Teak
Posted : 2006-10-27 11:21 AM
Post #33425 - In reply to #33424

I am going to vacuum bag it, and gorilla is so messy, does it stick to the bag? It sticks pretty much everything else.


 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: Gluing Teak
Posted : 2006-10-27 11:26 AM
Post #33426 - In reply to #33425

hi sather,
if you put wax paper over your entire lay-up you should be ok. top and bottom to catch the drips as it starts to expand.


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Gluing Teak
Posted : 2006-10-27 12:50 PM
Post #33427 - In reply to #33425

Sather,

Polyurethane is the one glue that will stick aggresively to the bag so make sure your panel is well covered. Along with polyurethane, recorcinal is a great exterior glue but be aware that it is dark purple which makes for a dark glue line.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: Gluing Teak
Posted : 2006-10-27 7:37 PM
Post #33428 - In reply to #33423

Having glued a few teak tables together, West Systems epoxy has worked well for me. Certainly with epoxy, and likely with any glue, teak needs to be wiped several times with a cloth or paper towel thoroughly wetted with acetone. This step removes the teak oil from the surface so the epoxy will adhere.

The biggest challenge to working with epoxy is that it is exothermal, meaning that almost immediately after mixing the two components the combination gives off heat. Lots of heat. Mix up 3 or 4 ounces in a styrofoam cup, let it sit for 5 minutes, and you'll likely see the cup melting. And heat speeds the curing process!

If gluing teak mortise and tenon joints I thoroughly mix the two components in a cup and then pour the combination onto a piece of 6 mil plastic sheet. In a thin layer, the chemically produced heat does not speed the curing time too much. Using a glue brush I can apply the epoxy as needed and assemble the joints. After the excess epoxy cures it'll peal right off the plastic sheet.

If gluing a piece of veneer, I would pour the mixed combination onto the substrate and then spread with a plastic putty knife or similar. The mixed epoxy might dissolve the black foam in foam brushes and roller pads - you'll have to try and see.

As always, experimenting with some scrap is strongly recommended.


 
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the yacht shop

Posts: 7

Joined: 2006-10-31
Location: MA.

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Subject : RE: Gluing Teak
Posted : 2006-10-31 7:29 PM
Post #33434 - In reply to #33428

When we need a longer working time for complex assembly before bagging a project we use the slow hardener and a larger, shallower mixing bowl set in ice or cold water. this will tripple your working time. we use west epoxy and vacu press bags all the time and love them for time and material saved not to mention a great finished product.


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