Brian Gray
Posts: 339
Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH
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Good timing with this...
I have a good friend who is a professional woodworker, and we were just discussing this over email...here's his thoughts.
Dilute the PVA (Titebond II works best for me) about 10% with water, not to much. Then coat both pieces, veneer and substrate, (I tape down the veneer pieces to keep them flat, and have found if I use a hair dryer immediately after applying the glue, it also help to keep them flat as well as speeds thing up considerably. Three thin coats on both pieces works best, I brush it on then use a rubber roller (rubber not hard plastic) called a brayer to distribute it thinly and evenly. It can be found at most art stores for inking block prints. Let dry, or blow dry, completely, until the glue is transparent. The parts can hang around the shop for 3 or 4 days before applying, but then become so dry that you will loose adhesion. Then heat up your iron to at least 160-180 degrees, high setting for cotton, position the veneer and stick it down. This as everything takes a little getting use to, too much heat it burns to little... you know. Anyway when done right, I think it is actually more difficult to remove than if I had glued and pressed with the same adhesive? Maybe a side effect of the reheating? I experimented with ironing through a wet cloth to avoid drying out the veneer, it also increases the heat due to the steam but works ok on occasion. At times depending on the veneer , heat, etc. I will wipe down the veneer immediately after ironing with a damp sponge to re constitute the moisture level, but over all if done right I can still hold a tight seam, you can also seam after applying the first piece by butting the next piece up to it and ironing it down. I've had good results with it and have a bathroom application I check in on for about 5 years with no signs of lifting or separation. The best part is it is immediate, glue, blow dry, iron, finish, as much fun as 5 min. epoxy in a press.
All that said I still press if at all possible! But at times the curves are to tight or it's to difficult to veneer edge band with straps and I use the reheating technique. The entire small table (except for the top) was ironed on over poplar, I used a curling iron, (inexpensively available in multiple sizes) for the inside curves like the inside of the feet and the inside hole in the center of the front apron. I use hide glue, but have difficulty appreciating it's values...stinky, pot life short, pain in the butt to prepare, bleeds through and is smeared on show side extensively at times changing color, *very slow to dry... on and on. Yeah it's reversible, but so are many other adhesives (maybe not Unibond) do I really want it reversible? Yuck, not for me.
Sorry to ramble so long
johnd
John E. DeGirolamo Designer, Craftsman & Artist
johnd@jovanni.com
www.jovanni.com
Be sure to check out his work at the website linked...very impressive stuff.
bg
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