Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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Mike Peters

Posts: 4

Joined: 2006-01-26
Location: Pace, Florida

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Subject : Laser cutting veneer
Posted : 2006-01-26 8:11 AM
Post #32742

I am new to working with veneer. I purchased a 30 watt CO2 laser to cut complex shapes in veneer for a custom furniture maker. The laser works fantastic on relatively flat veneer ( .003 cut width). However, cutting burl is imposible with all the warpage.
I am designig a vacuum table to pull the veneer flat but have not found a suitable substrate. What is the resin and material used in your honeycomb and how thick is the wall of the honeycomb? I would not want to make any noxious fumes.
Thanks


 
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Darryl Keil

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Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Laser cutting veneer
Posted : 2006-01-26 4:54 PM
Post #32745 - In reply to #32742

Mike,

Can you clarify? I assume you want the honeycomb for your vacuum table. How are you envisioning this working?

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Mike Peters

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Joined: 2006-01-26
Location: Pace, Florida

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Subject : RE: Laser cutting veneer
Posted : 2006-01-27 7:39 AM
Post #32746 - In reply to #32745

I am thinking of using the honeycomb in the vacuum table directly under the veneer. The honeycomb would fit into a manifold box. The unused area would be covered with a silicon mat to seal it off. Without an air space under the veneer, the veneer gets discolored & scorched on the bottom.


 
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Brian Gray

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Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: Laser cutting veneer
Posted : 2006-01-27 7:51 AM
Post #32747 - In reply to #32742

If I'm reading this correct, it sounds like you want to build a table that will pull the veneer flat with a vacuum during the laser cutting process. Is this right?

If so, I think that your efforts should go toward flattening the veneer with more conventional methods. Even if you can build a vacuum table that will pull the burls perfectly flat, your pieces will go back to being funky after they are cut, and then they will very be tough to piece together.

There are methods that involve flattening solutions and a vacuum press to get your funky veneers perfectly flat, and they will stay that way if you store them between cauls.

This is a thread that outlines a good flattening strategy.
http://www.vacupress.com/forum/thread-view.asp?threadid=16004&MessageID=31315#31315

You also should just do a search within this forum. Just use the word 'flattening', and you'll get LOTS of info.

Let me know if I'm understanding your question correctly. I think that when you said "vacuum table" some people here assumed that you meant a frame press.

Also, as a side note, I did some experimenting with some laser cutting a while back, and I'll share some tips.

Consider paperbacked veneer when cutting with a laser. I found it to be easier to work with.

Try placing the veneer in the laser cutter with the glue surface of the veneer UP. This way, most of the burning will occur on the bottom, and not show as much on your display surface.

A lot of guys who use laser cutters do not sand-shade. Consider it...it makes your piece look more 3-D and hand-made.

There are some guys here on the forum who do a lot more laser cutting than me, and I only experimented with a laser cutter a couple of times, but that's what I learned. The other guys may have some other tips.


 
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Mike Peters

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Joined: 2006-01-26
Location: Pace, Florida

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Subject : RE: Laser cutting veneer
Posted : 2006-01-27 9:49 PM
Post #32755 - In reply to #32747

You are correct. I want to use a vacuum table to pull the veneer flat. I'm cutting very small pieces, so the issue with it returning to the funky potatoe chip state is not a concern in this instance. However, your point is well taken. The other reason for pulling the veneer flat is to maintain the .003" width of cut. Right now, the furniture maker I do a lot of cutting for also supplies me with free veneer to experiment. But no paperback. I will take your advise on the flattening on my own work as I venture into larger pieces and the shading on all my work. I would still like the info on the honeycomb as a backup.
Thanks


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Laser cutting veneer
Posted : 2006-01-28 12:05 PM
Post #32756 - In reply to #32755

Mike,

I think I understand how you want to use the honeycomb now, and I think it would probably work. The honeycomb is 1/4" cell which means you never go more than 1/4" before there is vertical wall support. The resin impregnated paper is about the weight of a manila folder. If you put, lets say, 1/4" plywood on top of it you can easily stand on it with no deforming.

Hope this description helps.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Mike Peters

Posts: 4

Joined: 2006-01-26
Location: Pace, Florida

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Subject : RE: Laser cutting veneer
Posted : 2006-01-28 8:14 PM
Post #32760 - In reply to #32756

Darryl,
Thanks
Mike


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