Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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Bob McCarroll

Posts: 3

Joined: 2004-06-16
Location: Lexington, MA

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Subject : Crossing grain on plywoods
Posted : 2004-06-16 9:44 AM
Post #31590
I'm very new to veneering, and have been reading as much as I can get my hands on. Almost every source I've ever seen has stated that when using plywood as a substrate, it is important to cross the grain of the veneer with the grain of the outer faces of the plywood, to "maintain a balanced structure", because that is the way the plywood itself is made (and of course, to veneer both faces).

But no source tells exactly what bad thing will happen, if you run the grain paralellel. What bad thing does happen? Has anyone actually done this and had poor results? Is it less of an issue if using baltic birch or appleply? Is it less of an issue if the substrate is thicker (say, 3/4"?

Thanks for any advice
Bob






 
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Earl

Posts: 75

Joined: 2003-12-04
Location: Pensacola FL

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Subject : RE: Crossing grain on plywoods
Posted : 2004-06-16 4:01 PM
Post #31593 - In reply to #31590
Bob, you shouldn't have any problems running with or across the grain using plywood. The face veneers are very thin anyway. How else would you get 8 ft. cabinet sides with grain running verticle??


 
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Bob McCarroll

Posts: 3

Joined: 2004-06-16
Location: Lexington, MA

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Subject : RE: Crossing grain on plywoods
Posted : 2004-06-16 5:29 PM
Post #31595 - In reply to #31593
You've hit on exactly my problem, and I'm inclined to agree with your answer. Nonetheless, such sources as "The complete manual of wood veneering" (Lincoln) and "The veneering book" (Square) assert that it is advisable to gross grain.

They suggest that to make longer panels with vertical grain (my goal is 25" by 7 feet) one should first crossband with a cheaper veneer, then apply the face veneer. Alternatives suggested include ordering custom plywood with the grain running the other way, or joining multiple pieces together. My objections to these solutions are that crossbanding will make the panels thicker, custom plywood tends to be expensive, and joining multiple pieces seems likely to telegraph the joint through the veneer. Hence my question of, really, is this necessary in the first place?


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Crossing grain on plywoods
Posted : 2004-06-16 9:55 PM
Post #31597 - In reply to #31595
Bob,

As Earl said, you really are fine going the same direction as the face veneer because its so thin. Its the sub layers, the ones that are considerably thicker that need the 90 degree orientation. Take a look at a sheet of plywood (other than construction grade) and you will see how much thicker the core layers are.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: Crossing grain on plywoods
Posted : 2004-06-16 11:34 PM
Post #31600 - In reply to #31590
If I can help it, I always use some kind of MDF as a substrate, rather than plywood.

Paul Schurch taught me to go to a water-resistant MDF, rather than standard MDF.

Medex is a water-resistant MDF that Paul Schurch recommends, however it's not available from my suppliers...I use Xtira, which my suppliers tell me is the same material, same qualities, but from a different maker.


 
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Bob McCarroll

Posts: 3

Joined: 2004-06-16
Location: Lexington, MA

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Subject : RE: Crossing grain on plywoods
Posted : 2004-06-18 8:44 AM
Post #31605 - In reply to #31590
Thanks for all your comments. I'm pleased to learn that at least one thing may be simpler than I thought.


 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: Crossing grain on plywoods
Posted : 2004-06-20 8:02 PM
Post #31612 - In reply to #31605
try two plying your veneer , then apply to the substrate, or back the face veneer with yorkite, plywood (in my opinion) is the worst substrate to use unless your using apple ply or russian birch.
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