Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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Carl Stammerjohn

Posts: 4

Joined: 2003-09-16
Location: Torrance, CA

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Subject : Unibond vs. Weldwood
Posted : 2004-04-23 11:41 AM
Post #31473

What is the difference between Unibond 800 and Weldwood Plastic Resin glue? I have used them both and I know they are both urea formaldehyde glues. Other than the obvious difference (resin/powder vs. powder/water), how do they differ and when would I choose one over the other?


 
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Darryl Keil

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Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Unibond vs. Weldwood
Posted : 2004-04-25 6:46 PM
Post #31483 - In reply to #31473

Carl,

Think of Plastic Resin glue as a powderized version of Unibond 800 or Unibond 800 as a reconstituted version of Plastic Resin. When you mix Plastic Resin glue with water you are putting the resin and catalyst parts into solution to begin the chemical reaction. Although both work very well there are a few reasons I favor the liquid resin/powdered catalyst version.

First, you are keeping the two parts separate until you mix the glue. Having part A & B of a catalytic glue in the same container is asking for trouble in my opinion. If any moisture gets into this container you can have a low level reaction which makes the glue go bad, and you may not even notice this when mixed up. Keeping both parts seperate makes sure this will not happen. Also, with the liquid version its easy to tell when the self life is up because the liquid begins to thicken on itself, not so with the powdered version.

Second, a liquid version can have other chemicals besides water in it to improve preformance which you dont get when just adding water. Also, you can mix the glue too thin or thick with the powdered version, something you cant do with a liquid one.

Third, because the catalyst is seperate with the liquid version you can have a few different colors of catalyst as well as being able to control the speed of set to some extent by how much catalyst you add.

Fourth, the powdered version is a pain to mix, it really lumps up. When I used to use it I would mix it into a peanut butter consistency first and then carefully add more water to prevent lumping.

In my view the main advantage of the powdered version is that its cheaper. If you do buy this type make sure its fresh. Dont get it from the local hardware store where you have no idea how long they have had it around. Find a supplier that knows how fresh it is.

Thats my take.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil




 
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Michael Lomax

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Joined: 2004-04-30

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Subject : RE: Unibond vs. Weldwood
Posted : 2004-05-20 1:19 PM
Post #31536 - In reply to #31483

Darryl,

You mention that chemicals can be added to Unibond to improve performance. Are these chemicals added already or is tis something the end user might do?

What can be added and what for? Or, what has been added (no need to go into proprietary details) and why?

Sold on Unibond but always curious.

Michael Lomax



 
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Darryl Keil

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Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Unibond vs. Weldwood
Posted : 2004-05-20 9:44 PM
Post #31539 - In reply to #31536

Michael,

Mainly for good wetting out and penetration. About the only off the shelf additive you could possibly use would be alcohol, and Im not completely sure as to how much in what amount you would use in standard plastic resin and even if it would be ok. Im no chemist.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Michael Lomax

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Joined: 2004-04-30

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Subject : RE: Unibond vs. Weldwood
Posted : 2004-05-24 12:21 PM
Post #31554 - In reply to #31539


Are those products there now or do the need to be added?

Lomax



 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Unibond vs. Weldwood
Posted : 2004-05-26 8:25 PM
Post #31560 - In reply to #31554

Michael,

I kind of got my questions mixed up in the answer. Unibond has the additives already in it, or a version of it.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Larry Root

 
Subject : RE: Unibond vs. Weldwood
Posted : 2004-05-21 6:13 AM
Post #31540 - In reply to #31473

Carl,

Although Darryl mentions that Unibond is more expensive than plastic powder resin, it's not as significant as I'd first thought. My first Enibond purchase was a gallon. I husbanded it very carrfully, estimated how much I'd need and only mixed barely enough to do the job. But I ended up throwing out half the gallon. And the first time you run short of mixed glue with seveal more feet to cover you'll abandon the desire to estimate closely. My second pass, I bought a half gallon and used most of it, threw out a bit of excess on each job but never had to mix up more in the middle of an assembly.

So, if I've thrown out Unibond, why do I minimize the cost difference? Because I've also thrown out two near full containers of PPR that had expired. On a cost per piece basis, the few cents difference is not worth the aggravation of mixing the PPR (I'll have to try Darryl's trick next time). The unit cost might become important if you lay up commercial quastities.

But, for some reason I don't understood, I still keep PPR around for structural assembly.

Larry


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