Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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william wells

Posts: 7

Joined: 2008-02-13

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Subject : Walnut Burl voids
Posted : 2010-10-21 5:58 AM
Post #36186
What is the best way to deal with the small voids in Walnut burl veneer?
Thanks for your help.


 
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Enrico Konig

Posts: 74

Joined: 2006-01-06
Location: Vancouver, BC

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Subject : RE: Walnut Burl voids
Posted : 2010-10-21 9:07 AM
Post #36187 - In reply to #36186
A suitably sized veneer punch will make invisible patches, particularly in the swirly grain of walnut burl. They are not cheap but they do make such patching a breeze. Get the smallest size that will cover the largest bark inclusion that you need to patch. Use the punch to remove the bark inclusion, and replace it with an identical piece from the same veneer, paying careful attention to matching colour, grain etc. I find it is almost impossible to see the patches once the piece is finished, if it is done well, and that is knowing where they are.


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Walnut Burl voids
Posted : 2010-10-22 8:41 AM
Post #36188 - In reply to #36186
William,

When you say small voids, can you give a size of what you are talking about?

Darryl Keil


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: Walnut Burl voids
Posted : 2010-10-24 10:24 AM
Post #36189 - In reply to #36186
Paul Schurch demonsrates two ways of patching walnut burl voids in his first video, which has lots of useful info. One involves spreading veneer around small defect by stippling with corner of chisel. Other plugs hole with similar sized patch.


 
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william wells

Posts: 7

Joined: 2008-02-13

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Subject : RE: Walnut Burl voids
Posted : 2010-11-22 2:07 PM
Post #36203 - In reply to #36189
i was able to use a punch on the voids and it worked great, unfortunately another problem has reared it's ugly head. After flattening the veneer for a couple days I pressed my 1st panel and it came out great Then I was going to press the second panel and noticed a sharp ridge in one spot that i could tell was going to crack if I tried to press it so I sprayed a little softener on it and used an iron to flatten and dry it. It seemed to work great but when I removed my caul some fibers stuck to the caul in that area. I was able to repair that somewhat to my satisfaction but once I started spraying I noticed several little bubbles maybe 1/2 the size of your baby fingernail where the burl didn't bond to the substrate in the area I flattened. Due to my sanding with 320 with a hard block to repair the fiber tear out i can tell the veneer over the bubbles is super thin. I'm using unibond 800 with blocker.
Now to my questions,Do you think I didn't get it dry enough so it didn't bond? Will I need to use unibond to try and inject in the bubbles or will yellow glue (titebond III) work.
This is a 4 way book match oval top and the defect is at the end of the oval and is in the corner near the solid border and the center seam. Would it be possible to replace a 2" X 2" piece in this area( I have another piece of the burl so I can match the pattern) or am I making a new top?
Sorry for the long post, Thanks for your help.


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: Walnut Burl voids
Posted : 2010-11-23 7:43 PM
Post #36205 - In reply to #36203
Trying to understand the sequence of events for the 2nd piece. Sprayed some flattener and force dried quickly with an iron? What was the flattener - commercial product or home brew? Was the Unibond already mixed/applied to substrate during this step? Panel was pressed, torn area sanded out, then spraying finish?
What's the intended use of the piece?
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