Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
5 replies, 3084 viewings
 
back
Navigate threads:
< Previous Thread :: Next Thread >
 
^ Top
Howard

Posts: 24

Joined: 2007-01-15

User Profile 
Subject : Visible joints
Posted : 2008-03-06 10:21 PM
Post #34416
No matter how clean a cut I make and how tight I fit the joint in light colored veneer I get a very noticeable dark line at the joint after applying finish to the lay-up. The joint is almost invisible appears very tight and is almost invisible until the finish is applied. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Howard



 
^ Top
Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Visible joints
Posted : 2008-03-07 7:37 PM
Post #34417 - In reply to #34416
Maybe you could snap a picture to show us.

Whenever you join light veneers there will always be some kind of a visible seam.

I'm not sure if you're talking about a real problem, or if you seam is just par for the course.


 
^ Top
Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Visible joints
Posted : 2008-03-07 7:53 PM
Post #34418 - In reply to #34416
I have seamed sheets of maple and quartersawn white oak and the seams didn't stand out. With the white oak I used regular Unibond, and with the maple I used "white" Pro-Glue. The oak hasn't been finished, but the maple was covered with an acrylic wb (may have been first a coat of blonde shellac, but can't remember). I first pulled the seams together on the glue side with blue masking tape, then taped on the show side with veneer tape and removed the masking tape. I jointed the seams with a Festool circular saw and saw guide.

If we may ask, what type of veneer, how were the seams prepared, what type of glue, was the veneer flattened with solution first (if so, may be excess moisture that led to shrinkage over time and PVA or other non-rigid glue), how was the veneer prepped and finished? Not questioning your techniques, just trying to better identify what might be the problem.

Don


 
^ Top
Howard

Posts: 24

Joined: 2007-01-15

User Profile 
Subject : Visible joints
Posted : 2008-03-07 10:21 PM
Post #34419 - In reply to #34418
Don:

My last try was ash burl. I cut it with a veneer saw and did the blue tape one side then veneer tape other side routine. Glue was Old Brown liquid hide glue. Veneer was finished with shellac (French Polish)

I have also had this problem with some other veneers using Unibond.

It’s hard to show line in a photo. If you’re willing to take the time I could send you some samples before and after finishing to get you opinion.

Howard
spectrum@mailaka.net



 
^ Top
Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Visible joints
Posted : 2008-03-08 7:57 PM
Post #34420 - In reply to #34419
Hi Howard.

If you are having trouble getting the seams to show up in a photo, then my guess is that your seams are par for the course....

Take a look here...

http://www.briangray.net/projectdetail.cfm?ProjectID=25

Click the photos to enlarge, and you will see that I have seams in the anigre. I'm completely happy with those, however.

Is this about the same as your result? If so, I wouldn't fret over it.

Take care.

bg


 
^ Top
Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Visible joints
Posted : 2008-03-09 10:48 AM
Post #34421 - In reply to #34419
Howard:

It might be that more glue is migrating through the seam than bleeding through the neighboring veneer, and creating a noticeable contrast. I'd expect Old Brown dries somewhat medium to dark brown. You didn't mention how you are clamping the veneer to the substrate - could you try some clear epoxy with some scrap light veneer using your typical clamping method, and finish? Clear epoxy shouldn't add any color so if the seam is still noticeable then something other than the adhesive is causing it. (You might want to cover the veneer with a piece of plastic sheet so any epoxy bleed through doesn't stick to the top caul, clamp, ...)

I pressed some olive ash burl a few years ago and the seam wasn't too bad. I used PVA with a hot iron there (which I'll never use again for veneer - the heat caused the veneer to shrink and the seams to open up in a couple places towards the middle of the sides) and there doesn't seem to be a brown line in the light area at the top of the sides. If the link works you can see a picture at
http://www.stephanwoodworking.com/Display%20Stands-Tapered%20Pair%20Rectangle%20Olive%20Ash%20Burl.htm
if not, www.stephanwoodworking.com click on "Display Cabinets Stands Tables" and at the bottom of the new page click "Details and larger image" for the olive ash burl stands.
back
Navigate threads:
< Previous Thread :: Next Thread >
Legend      Notification  
Administrator
Forum Moderator
Registered User
Unregistered User
 Toggle e-mail notification


Logo by MAZY
Running MegaBBS ASP Forum Software v1.5.14b public beta