Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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Scott

Posts: 31

Joined: 2006-08-23
Location: New Hampshire

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Subject : Unibond 800 as a flattening solution
Posted : 2008-02-28 11:31 AM
Post #34406

Darryl or anybody, How do you feel about using unibond 800 ( or epoxy at that) as a flattening solution for very wavy and brittle veneer. I have a situation where I cannot easily make a 2 ply because of thickness. I'm matching other veneer thickness and cannot route the surface due to conditions. I hate to add moisture to the veneer using tradional flattening flattening solutions and they do not dry in the bag because of no air. If I add glue to the solution (traditional method) I cant add newspaper to dry them because it sticks to the paper. Therefore. How do you feel about saturating the veneer in unibond ( or epoxy) and pressing it flat? Will the unibond stick to itself when I go to press it to the substrate? Maybe Epoxy. Has anyone ever done this?
Scott


 
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Darryl Keil

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Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Unibond 800 as a flattening solution
Posted : 2008-02-28 12:36 PM
Post #34407 - In reply to #34406

Scott,

I need one piece of information to properly answer your question. What kind of veneer do you want to do this with?

Darryl


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: Unibond 800 as a flattening solution
Posted : 2008-02-28 8:06 PM
Post #34408 - In reply to #34406

Not sure how you are going to be able to flatten very wavy and brittle veneer if you don't apply liquid that will be absorbed into the veneer and make it flexible. I don't know if Unibond or epoxy would be absorbed fast enough to soften the veneer before the adhesive begins to cure.

The flattening process I'm familiar with involves surrounding the veneer with fiberglas screening after moistening (to keep paper from sticking to the veneer) and then pressing with several sheets of newsprint or similar paper on each side, changing the paper several times the first couple days and once a day thereafter until the veneer has dried. (After the first couple days, the screening is no longer needed.)

From experience, you don't want to allow the veneer to air dry, because it will simply become wavy again, even a couple days into the process. Keep changing paper daily and clamping until the veneer has completely dried. A vacuum bag might help draw off the moisture and save some time, but the paper is the primary drying agent.


 
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Scott

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Joined: 2006-08-23
Location: New Hampshire

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Subject : RE: Unibond 800 as a flattening solution
Posted : 2008-02-29 9:51 AM
Post #34409 - In reply to #34408

Hi Darry and Don. The veneer is crotch mahogany. Its a center oval on a federal tall case clock with a very complicated layup. It has inlays around it then a picture frame of cross grain mahogany then more inlays then a second picture frame of cross grain which wraps around a 1/4 round edge. The only way I could do such a complicated layup was to hammer veneer with hide glue and build as I go. The problem is the mahogany needs to be flattened and it is very hard to hammer veneer even after it is flattened. I have already flattened the crotch using hide glue and water but did not put paper like Don said because it would stick to the glue. It will not dry in the bag. I guess if I use a screen it will not stick??? Seems like the glue would seep through the screen? I will get some screen and try it. Thanks


 
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Don Stephan

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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: Unibond 800 as a flattening solution
Posted : 2008-02-29 7:35 PM
Post #34410 - In reply to #34409

Hi Scott:

If I am following your description correctly, you are just starting to apply the veneer layup, beginning with the crotch mahogany. You applied a thinned hide glue to the crotch veneer and then pressed in a vacuum bag?


 
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Scott

Posts: 31

Joined: 2006-08-23
Location: New Hampshire

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Subject : RE: Unibond 800 as a flattening solution
Posted : 2008-03-03 11:25 AM
Post #34413 - In reply to #34410

Hi Don, No all the outer borders are done and all that was left was the oval in the center. Yes I applied a thinned hide glue to just the oval piece and put it in the bag. It never did dry but it didnt really need to I guess because when you hammer veneer it, it only gets saturated with glue and water again. Anyhow I just cut it to shape and hammer veneered it down. It came out beautiful. I will keep your screen idea in mind next time I need to dry and flatten veneer. Thanks
Scott


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