Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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Paul Morris

Posts: 3

Joined: 2007-03-04
Location: Des Moines, IA

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Subject : Teak veneer project
Posted : 2007-03-05 10:52 AM
Post #33674
Good Morning,
I'm the newbie here and getting started in veneering work in relation to boat repair and restoration. I have done veneering long ago while working at a pipe organ factory in Boston so I remember many of the operations. There we used hide glue, big presses ete., etc.. No vacuum though.
I am currently getting started in rebuilding teak faced engine hatches fir a power cruiser that are 36"x60" and lay down flush in a recess in the fiberglass deck. They are 3/4" marine plywood with two 1-1/2"x3" stiffbacks on the under side on the 60" length. The entire panel will be sealed with penetrating epoxy on the edges and back side then grey paint. The front side will be left bald and veneered with teak veneer set in epoxy as the original was.
Here are a few nagging questions I still have:
The veneer I've gotten from from Constantine's seems to be good material, quite flat although being face sheared has a tendancy to split real easy.

Question; When needing to crosscut the veneer should I put veneer tape on in the direction of the cut and then cut through it and the veneer also to possibly keep it from splintering as it is being cut?? Planning on using a sharpened Two Cherries veneer saw for this. What do ya think??

Question: How flat is flat?? This veneer is not at all bumpy or curly like I've seen on most hardwood fancy veneers. This tends to lay very flat and relaxed. I can't imagine that under 1600psf pressure this won't bed down in the epoxy just fine. I am very leary of handling this veneer excessively in this large (by my standards) format. What do ya think??

A standard practice when gluing teak lumber is to wash the glue faces of the stock with acetone prior to applying the glue.

Question: Is this practice done with teak veneers also?? What do ya think??

Question: Is it likely that the epoxy will purge through the veneer faces when in the vacuum clamp up?? I don't see it as too much of a problem, I just need to plan and prepare for it.

Well, I guess that's enough for now. Fire away Lads!!!
Thanks in advance,


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: Teak veneer project
Posted : 2007-03-05 7:57 PM
Post #33675 - In reply to #33674
If splitting is a problem when crosscutting to length, you can first apply masking tape to either side so that the cut will fall within the tape; apply veneer tape to the show side; or veneer tape to the show side and masking tape to the glue side for the greatest reinforcement. Just remember to remove any tape on the glue side before pressing to the substrate.

Experiment first to see if tape will adhere to the teak without wiping the veneer with acetone to remove some of the oil.

To counter splitting, you can always add some strips of veneer tape to the show side along all the edges, and across the width and/or length as necessary.

I would wipe the entire glue side of the teak as a precaution, just as typically done with solid teak, before gluing.

Epoxy can be used in a vacuum press, just remember to insert a layer of 4mil or so plastic between the veneer and top caul and probably on top of the bottom caul or grooved platen as well.


 
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Paul Morris

Posts: 3

Joined: 2007-03-04
Location: Des Moines, IA

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Subject : RE: Teak veneer project
Posted : 2007-03-05 9:52 PM
Post #33676 - In reply to #33675
I plan on using a single sheet vacuum membrane with "tacky tape" around the perimeter. The veneer substrate will actually be the "back of the bag".


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: Teak veneer project
Posted : 2007-03-05 11:16 PM
Post #33683 - In reply to #33676
Trust me, I'm a huge fan of making my own veneered substrates, but I have to ask...

Why not just buy some teak plywood?

I re-read your post, and maybe I'm missing something.

Usually, when I'm making my own plywood, it's because I can't buy a certain species commercially, or I'm doing a marquetry design.

Granted...in my area, I pay over $100 for a 4x8 sheet of Teak, but I'd still probaby pay for it than make my own....my 2 cents.


 
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Paul Morris

Posts: 3

Joined: 2007-03-04
Location: Des Moines, IA

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Subject : RE: Teak veneer project
Posted : 2007-03-06 9:49 AM
Post #33684 - In reply to #33683
Hi Brian:
I sure would like to do that. Two stumbling blocks. I can't find a source locally that has or is willing to bring in one sheet of this on REAL marine plywood. I found some in Minneapolis but it had a poplar lumber core. If I wanted 25 sheets the lumber suppliers here would help me out.
There in Sandusky there are several boat builders and I suspect that this product may be more available for that consumer.
The second issue is that the face grain on these hatches runs the opposite way from what is normally furnished on veneer faced plywood - ****!!
I have the marine plywood in stock in the shop - so, here we go.
Paul


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: Teak veneer project
Posted : 2007-03-06 11:07 AM
Post #33686 - In reply to #33684
Makes perfect sense! And you are right - here in Sandusky, I sometimes take for granted all the teak supply and boat building supplies around here that aren't present elsewhere.

In that case, the only comment that I would add is that you might want to consider a Urea Resin as your adhesive rather than epoxy, simply because epoxy is a pretty high saturator, and bleeds through very easily.

Now you can thicken epoxy, but I've never tried...West System sells an agent for this.

That being said, if your final finish is going to be varnish, then the bleeding epoxy doesn't matter as much. I've found that veneer work that has epoxy bleed-through is not noticeable once you sand and lay down a layer of varnish...it usually disappears...but you might want to do a test scrap beforehand.

Good luck, thanks for the clarification.
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