Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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GearHead

Posts: 9

Joined: 2006-04-13

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Subject : Veneering a car door
Posted : 2006-04-13 3:04 PM
Post #32971
I am working on a car restoration project, and to get rid of cheap imitations I have chosen to do parts of the interior in padouk veneer. I had no problems doing the dashboard inserts and other simple surfaces but rear door have a tricky feature:

http://img107.imageshack.us/my.php?image=door9mm.jpg

Hope you see it because I have no better picture. If you want I'll do the close-up wireframe in 3d Studio.
I can't figure a way to put veneer onto it without cracking the veneer becuse of that "fading" bump. It is now covered with padouk textured self-adhesive foil just to get the picture of what it will look like once I do it for real.

Can you give me any advice on how to do it?
Would it be smart to use neoprene glue for that?
Another trick is that this has to be done in the car and veneer has to go directly to metal (or over this foil).


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Veneering a car door
Posted : 2006-04-14 9:55 AM
Post #32972 - In reply to #32971
Gearhead,

Getting veneer to conform to compound shapes is not easy, especially tight ones.

You can attempt it two ways. One is to lightly wet the veneer in this area, not too much to affect the glue, and then massage the veneer through the bag with a small wallpaper roller. Turn the pump on and off as you massage the veneer, increase the vacuum in stages.

The other approach is to totally soak the veneer with water and glycerin and press it over your door with no glue. Use newspaper on top of the veneer to remove the moisture. You will need to change the newspaper about six times to dry it out. Now your veneer should already be conformed to the shape you want and can glue it up in a second pressing. You still may need to do some massaging when you press it.

Be aware that Padouk is a particularly poor wood to attempt this with as it doesn't three dimensionally bend like some other veneers do.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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GearHead

Posts: 9

Joined: 2006-04-13

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Subject : RE: Veneering a car door
Posted : 2006-04-14 3:31 PM
Post #32973 - In reply to #32972
Thanks for that, Darryl.
I'll try to do the glycerin technique. Since padouk does not stretch in 3d I'll try to do that in two pieces, one for the top surface and one for the side, so I don't put too much stress on that tricky point. Hope the edges will match.
Thank you again.

Nick (GearHead)


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: Veneering a car door
Posted : 2006-04-15 7:01 PM
Post #32975 - In reply to #32973
You might consider purchasing a pin type moisture meter and checking the moisture level of the veneer before applying the softening solution. Keep changing paper and the drying process until the veneer registers the same moisture level again. The veneer will feel dry before it is dry enough to glue.


 
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GearHead

Posts: 9

Joined: 2006-04-13

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Subject : RE: Veneering a car door
Posted : 2006-04-18 3:48 PM
Post #32983 - In reply to #32972
I've tried both soaking the venner in water and glycerin but padouk is just too stubborn so I'll try to do the job by patching the top of the curved part and sanding the veneer to minimum possible thickness to make it more elastic.

In case this fails, which veneer would you recomend for this job?



 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Veneering a car door
Posted : 2006-04-18 7:35 PM
Post #32988 - In reply to #32983
Nick,

Believe it or not, walnut burl is one of the absolutely best veneers for forming around compound shapes.

You would still need to go through the procedures I suggested but the results should be much better.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil
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