Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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Paradise

Posts: 2

Joined: 2006-02-22

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Subject : removing veneer tape
Posted : 2006-02-22 3:42 PM
Post #32841
I am having trouble with the veneer buckling or pulling away from the panel when I dampen the veneer tape for removal. I am using a sponge and only slightly wetting the tape. I first had this porblem with yellow glue so I swithched to unibond 800 same problem. I am putting the glue on with a roller. I am not putting glue on the veneer only the panel(baltic birch). It seem like the glue is not adhering to the veneer. I belive I am using plenty of glue. I am letting it dry for 24 hours after I take it out of the bag. Any thoughts or suggestions.


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: removing veneer tape
Posted : 2006-02-23 3:39 PM
Post #32842 - In reply to #32841
Paradise,

Thoroughly wetting the panel is one way I check to make sure the veneer is properly bonded so if only light wetting bubbles up the veneer then you know you have a gluing problem.

What kind of veneer are you using? Are you getting any bleed through? Are you sure you are above 65 degrees during the pressing cycle?

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Paradise

Posts: 2

Joined: 2006-02-22

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Subject : RE: removing veneer tape
Posted : 2006-02-24 2:02 AM
Post #32845 - In reply to #32842
Darryl, I used a figured maple slightly over 1/64 in thickness. I is not backed. I did not get any bleed through that I could see. I am reasonably sure that it was over 65 degrees in my shop when I placed it into the bag. What effect would the temp. have? I did pour out some glue on the side. It took about 4 hrs. to become rubberized. I then took the panel out of the bag and let it dry. I like the suggestion of applying a second coat of glue.

Thank you


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: removing veneer tape
Posted : 2006-02-24 11:29 AM
Post #32846 - In reply to #32845
//What effect would the temp. have?//
It sounds to me that this might be your problem.

Unibond 800 requires a curing temperature of 65 degrees or higher. Either use an electric blanket to heat the project during curing, or turn up your shop heat to above 65.

//It took about 4 hrs. to become rubberized.//
Did this glue ever become hard and brittle? Unibond will cure to become very hard and brittle. Hard enough that I've actually cut myself on cured Unibond that hardened into a shape that was fairly sharp. If this squeezout that you describe stayed rubbery, then it didn't cure.

If you haven't allowed Unibond to cure in a heated environment, then this has to be the answer...or at least the first place to start...good luck.





 
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Jeff Patrick


Joined: 2004-04-15
Location: Bainbridge Island, WA

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Subject : RE: removing veneer tape
Posted : 2006-02-23 8:17 PM
Post #32844 - In reply to #32841
I'm certainly no expert but I have pressed quite a few panels in recent years. I keep learning new things about the process and about my work habits. Recently I had one seam on a door panel do exactly like you describe. The only difference is that I tend to really wet the tape...... I want to get all the glue off. Anyway, having this one loose seam was very unusual for me since I thought I'd already made every mistake possible. As I fixed it I reflected back on my glue application and I remembered this one panel that I forgot to roll glue on a second time. Some time ago, Darryl advised me to apply the glue in two coats: let the first coat soak in for a few minutes, then roll on a second. This process has served me well, especially over plywood substrate. You might try the two coat application.


 
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Mitch

 
Subject : RE: removing veneer tape
Posted : 2006-02-25 4:46 PM
Post #32851 - In reply to #32844
And one time I left the temporary masking tape on the backside of the seam. So the tape was well glued to the substrate, but the veneer was stuck on only be the stickiness of the masking tape.
Is it possible you forgot to remove the masking tape?

Mitch
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