Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-02-12 2:48 PM
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Rick Konig

 
Subject : Do skins need to be one piece over honeycomb?
Posted : 2005-10-29 5:14 PM
Post #32509

I'm doing a large conference table, 12 feet by 6 feet. Planning on using the resin impregnated honeycomb for the first time, for weight considerations and also for flatness & stability. The table will be 1 1/4" thick, so will use 3/4" honeycomb with 1/4" mdf skins. The problem is that I'm unable to find mdf sheets big enough to do it in one piece without an (expensive) special order. Are seams possible/advisable on the skins? Or how have others approached this problem with very large tables?

To attach top to base, I understand the need to provide solid anchor points within the sandwich. I'm thinking these would be the same thickness as the honeycomb. Do they need to be attached to the sandwich sides (mdf) that are framing in the honeycomb as well?

It will be veneered with paperbacked cherry. I normally use raw veneers, making up two-plies when necessary. I'm assuming I can use UF glue without problem with paperbacks. Is this correct? Also, is there any issue with joining paperbacks together? Or just do the usual, i.e. masking tape on the paper side, then veneer tape on top side, and then removing masking tape?

And how does one go about mating radiuses on very large radius projects in order to attach solid wood edging?

Any help and/or advice is greatly appreciated. This forum has been a great aid many a time. (And ever since getting my vacupress system a few years ago I have become a veneering & curved form nut, thanks Daryll!)


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: Do skins need to be one piece over honeycomb?
Posted : 2005-10-29 7:01 PM
Post #32510 - In reply to #32509

I've never attempted it before, but I'm willing to bet that you can get it to fit pretty well at the seam, and then where there are any inconsistencies, just spread some epoxy in the gaps before putting on your cherry veneer. Spread it in, and then sand flat when cured.

Someone else might have a better answer, seing as though I've never done it...just speculating.

As far as paper backed veneer goes, I just treat it like non-paperbacked with joining it...when it comes to adhesives, unibond is fine. You'll like not having to deal with any bleed-through...nice characteristic of paperbacked.

Good luck.


 
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Michael Melkonian

 
Subject : RE: Do skins need to be one piece over honeycomb?
Posted : 2005-10-29 10:25 PM
Post #32511 - In reply to #32509

Somebody on this forum referred me to this book and I think you will find it just as useful; Dining Tables by Kim Carleton Graves

There is a chapter showing a conference table sounding very similar to what you are doing and gives an example of it's construction using the honeycomb and doing a large radius

The book also goes over a technique to match a solid radius on a different table

After reading it cover to cover I consider it a must read for anyone new or old to building tables. The intro is very nice and goes over some ergonomics of table sizes,height,seating space,apron heights, and space around the table. Things that will make the table function well in the intended room. I would assume that if a client commisioned the table they have the room to fit it but it's nice to make sure there will be enough space around for it to function well. While most of the info relates to dining table the info can apply to any table after all conference tables are used for eating at times.

Word to the wise, after being on a number of forums there does seem to be folks that specialize in just conference tables, most are pretty knowledgable and friendly, some are just not helpful and will just tell you that you are out of your league if you don't know what you're doing already as if they we're born with the knowledge, I hope you don't encounter the latter here.

Having not used honeycomb yet (I'm using foam core on my dining table I'm doing) my thoughts on the skins would be to also breakup the honeycomb field and have a strips of MDF equal in thickness to honeycomb under the joints to make it stronger, and obviously stagger the joints on top and bottom. In addition one needs to worry about how you're going to move such a table(not just weight but size getting it out of shop and into building especially upstrairs) and making it in sections that can be assembled on site may be in order.




 
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Larry Root

 
Subject : RE: Do skins need to be one piece over honeycomb?
Posted : 2005-10-31 5:45 AM
Post #32517 - In reply to #32509

Rick,

I've never done a piece that long -- so I'm talking through my hat on this.

Are you going to add skirting or angle iron under the top? If not, then the lower skin will bear the load in tension. I'd consider 1/8 (or thinner) Baltic Birch type plywood with the joints offset and then cover that with a full length, thicker, quality veneer (or even a horizontal grade high-pressure laminate).

Larry


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1454

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Do skins need to be one piece over honeycomb?
Posted : 2005-10-31 12:57 PM
Post #32518 - In reply to #32509

Rick,

You can have seams in the skin material but I would run a strip of solid wood about 1" wide where the two sheets butt each other.

I don't recommend running veneer directly over this seam, so I would press a sub layer of veneer under the face veneer to protect any possible telegraphing at this joint.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Enrico Konig

 
Subject : RE: Do skins need to be one piece over honeycomb?
Posted : 2005-10-31 9:59 PM
Post #32521 - In reply to #32518

Thanks, everyone, for the advice and help.

Darryl, do you mean using a regular two ply instead of just one layer of paperback?

Thanks again.

Rick


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