Darryl Keil Last Activity 2024-10-10 3:42 PM
5 replies, 2211 viewings
 
back
Navigate threads:
< Previous Thread :: Next Thread >
 
^ Top
Eric

Posts: 15

Joined: 2005-02-16
Location: Long Beach Ca

User Profile 
Subject : Plastic Resin Glue
Posted : 2005-06-22 8:15 PM
Post #32279
So lately I've been watching 'Wood Works' on the DIY network (good show, fully blows away the New Yankee Workshop), and I've been noticing that the host uses plastic resin glue on all his veneering.

I've never used it before, so is ther an advantage to using that instead of the 800 or Pro Glue? Also how would bleed through effect the finish with the plastic resin glue?


 
^ Top
Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Plastic Resin Glue
Posted : 2005-06-22 10:14 PM
Post #32280 - In reply to #32279
A lot of your question has to do with the definition of "plastic resin" glue....it's not always totally clear, and sometimes interchangeable, depending upon whose throwing the word around.

I posted a question along these lines a while back...

http://www.vacupress.com/forum/thread-view.asp?threadid=16192&MessageID=31903#31903
Read this for more info about the definition...it's not that far off from Unibond.

I'm pretty sure that David Marks actually uses Unibond 800 for veneering. Then a lot of times he uses plastic resin glue on joinery, etc. I could be wrong, however....I'm going by memory.


 
^ Top
Eric

Posts: 15

Joined: 2005-02-16
Location: Long Beach Ca

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Plastic Resin Glue
Posted : 2005-06-22 10:36 PM
Post #32281 - In reply to #32280
Thanks Brian, that link cleared things up for me.

Watching the show David just says "plastic resin glue" so that was all I was going off of.

I guess the next question, unrelated to veneering, would be: How much better is the plastic resin (like the DAP brand) than regular Titebond pva type glues in general woodworking construction? Is it worth the hassle of all the mixing?


 
^ Top
Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Plastic Resin Glue
Posted : 2005-06-23 6:50 AM
Post #32282 - In reply to #32281
I'm not really sure, since I've never used plastic resin (the powder that you mix with water).

I've always used a PVA for joinery, and then if I have a complicated assembly which requires a slow setting glue, I just mix up a small batch of Unibond, or epoxy.

There was a good article in Fine Woodworking regarding a comparison of all adhesives not too long ago. After reading it, I figured that I don't really need to look into the powder form. PVA's have been the workhorse adhevise when is comes to joinery, and the companies keep making it better and better (Titebond III, for example). I didn't see any advantage of plastic resin over the PVA's, except for slower setting if needed.

And then if I need a slower setting adhesive, I already have stuff that I use for veneering sitting on the shelf.


 
^ Top
Darryl Keil

Posts: 1453

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Plastic Resin Glue
Posted : 2005-06-24 7:02 AM
Post #32283 - In reply to #32281
Brian, Thanks for finding that earlier post, saved me from looking for it myself or typing it again.

Eric, Urea resin glue (water mix or liquid/powder mix) give you two properties that PVA's don't have. Long open work time, as Brian said, and rigidity. Most of the time you don't need either of these for general wood gluing but on occasion they're valuable. Long open work time more often than the rigidity. About the only time I want the rigidity is for a high gloss finish. All PVA's creep to some extent at the glue line and this can show up over time in the finish. The rigidity of a urea resin glue eliminates this.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
^ Top
davetinley

Posts: 12

Joined: 2004-05-20
Location: Central Texas

User Profile 
Subject : RE: Plastic Resin Glue
Posted : 2005-07-12 6:54 PM
Post #32306 - In reply to #32279
Eric-
I just finished a class with David Marks, very down to earth fellow.
He uses Urac 185, by the Nelson Company. Since he resaws all of his veneer and uses it in 1/8 to 3/16 thick he likes the longer working time that the Urac 185 gives. He also uses the same for bentwood lamination projects for the working time and also for the ridgidity.
Since I am using the commercial veneers, 1/32 or 1/42 thick, I have had good success with the Unibond 800, with the exception of QS white oak, and for that I use a glue that has crushed pecan shells in the formula and I get no bleed thru and a good bond.
Hope this helps.
Dave
back
Navigate threads:
< Previous Thread :: Next Thread >
Legend      Notification  
Administrator
Forum Moderator
Registered User
Unregistered User
 Toggle e-mail notification


Logo by MAZY
Running MegaBBS ASP Forum Software v1.5.14b public beta