Darryl Keil Last Activity 2024-10-10 3:42 PM
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silver

Posts: 6

Joined: 2005-03-17

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Subject : walnut burl project
Posted : 2005-03-17 9:28 PM
Post #32113
I am starting a project involving doors and tops vacuum laminated with flinch cut walnut burl and have the following questions:
should I use unibond blocker?
the dark catalyst?
I am planning to laminate to larger 3/4" mdf panels(not lite) and cut my doors to size with veneer on both sides with an expensive melamine blade before edge gluing white oak stiles on the door edges. Will this work ok?

Also have a buffet table top supported along the back that is 24" wide x 60" with 1-1/2"x 3" oak edging all sides-should I use honeycomb on this to prevent sagging -what thickness honeycomb?

I just discovered this forum and I am really enjoying it. Thanks for your help.
silver


 
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Larry Root

 
Subject : RE: walnut burl project
Posted : 2005-03-21 7:57 AM
Post #32116 - In reply to #32113
Silver,

I'm inferring from the 3/4 core that the doors will be modestly large.
You mention edge gluing the frame.
My concern would be the load that the hinges place on the frame, it will place the edge glued joint in tension with nothing but the glue joint to carry it. Half the width of the door will provide leverage for the weight to load that glue joint; I'd be concerned unless the door is narrow. I recommend that you NOT use a PVA unless you use a Euro style hinge that you can mount to the panel itself rather than the glued on banding.

Good luck,
Larry


 
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silver

Posts: 6

Joined: 2005-03-17

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Subject : RE: walnut burl project
Posted : 2005-04-02 10:01 PM
Post #32140 - In reply to #32116
Larry Root, Thanks for your reply.

I am planning to biscuit and pva glue the 1-1/2" oak edging on,although I could upgrade the glue to what?plastic resin??polyurehane??unibond 800??

I also am using Hettich european hinges and on larger doors will use 3 and 4 hinges per door, ideally with inserts into the mdf core for better holding power.

No problem, eh?


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1453

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: walnut burl project
Posted : 2005-03-27 4:58 PM
Post #32123 - In reply to #32113
Silver,

Definitely use the dark catalyst and the blocker, although not a must would help with bleed through.

You should be fine with a good sharp melamine blade. I have always used 80 tooth carbide alternate top bevel blades for the best cut on veneer.

If your table top is 1 1/2" thick then I would use 1" honeycomb with 1/4" skins both sides. I actually dont know if you really need the honeycomb as I am not clear how your table is supported, but using it surely wont hurt.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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silver

Posts: 6

Joined: 2005-03-17

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Subject : RE: walnut burl project
Posted : 2005-04-02 10:05 PM
Post #32141 - In reply to #32123
Thanks Darryl
Just watched your dvd-working with veneer...very helpful.

I called and Dan said blocker wouldn't be necesary with the walnut...
I just placed an order and if I need it, I'll call and add it Monday...
it's cheap and if it makes it easier I would go for it. Yes?-or just sand the glue bleedthrough that comes through??

Thanks,
silver


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1453

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: walnut burl project
Posted : 2005-04-03 11:21 AM
Post #32142 - In reply to #32141
Silver,

I'll have to check with Dan on Monday as to why he didnt recommend using it since walnut burl is just the kind of high porosity veneer the Unibond blocker is ideal for. I would definitely use it.

No veneer except for curly maple requires it, it just saves a lot of work afterwards. The reason you need it on curly maple is because Unibond 800 can sometimes stain maple yellow where the glue bleeds through. Its next to impossible to prevent bleed through on curly maple, hence the use of blocker on this veneer.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil
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