Darryl Keil Last Activity 2024-10-10 3:42 PM
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Curt Sines

Posts: 1

Joined: 2004-12-23

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Subject : Veneering drum shells
Posted : 2004-12-23 9:19 AM
Post #31934

I make custom drums. how would I sucessfully veneer the outside of a drum shell that is 14" diameter and 6" tall, 3/8" thick? Also, how large of a bag is needed for a drum shell 22" in diameter and 18" tall (or long)? I'm thinking of using a small system with the little pump. Will this work? Or do I ned to make a larger investment for an air powered system(i have a 3hp compressor)?
Thanks


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1453

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Veneering drum shells
Posted : 2004-12-29 8:21 PM
Post #31943 - In reply to #31934

Curt,

You could make a plug for the inside or tuck the bag in there as vacuum is drawn. Any cylinder in general needs to be veneered in two steps. First pressing glues up about 3/4 of the cylinder and the second pressing finishes it off.

It may sound like a lot of bag but one about 4'x 7' is what I would suggest. As far as pumps go, I would recommend one of the larger auto cycling units over the compact 100 as you have a fair amount of air volume to get out of the bag. The AirPowered system would work fine.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil




 
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mike h

Posts: 10

Joined: 2004-10-24

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Subject : RE: Veneering drum shells
Posted : 2005-01-01 1:08 AM
Post #31945 - In reply to #31934

This is my experience with drum shells. I have a 4' X 8' bag with a air form bladder system. This works fine for shells up to 14" in diameter. Because of how thin the shells are, floor tom or 16" diameter shells or larger deflect too much. You need some ribs to keep them from crushing. A 22" drum will not work in the bag it pulls at the seems. It also is impossible to pull the bag inside the shell you cannot snap the enclosure it gets too deformed. I have made several dry runs at this with no success. In order to do a 22" shell you will need a custom bag made. I don't know about the math, but I don't think you can get one made big enough to do a bass drum.


 
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Larry Root

 
Subject : RE: Veneering drum shells
Posted : 2005-01-03 6:48 AM
Post #31955 - In reply to #31945

Mike,

I have no idea whether this would work, but if I had to try veneering a large drum I'd modify the technique for a stair stringer that Darryl demonstrated in his video.

Cut 2 disks of 3/4" MDF somewhat larger than the drum's diameter and one disk about 1/4" smaller; laminate them together to form a plate with as stepped rim (smallest in the middle). Take sheet of bag material and make a tube the diameter of the made up plate with a length more than 3X the shell's height. Once the seam was dry, turn it in on itself to form a double walled tubular sleeve, sealed at one end. Load the drum wrapped in netting; pull the walls up. Lay the plate on top of drum. Slip the two walls over the plate (don't pull it tight or the difference in diameter between the shell and the plate will stress the shell) and seal it with a strapping clamp wrapped twice around the plate's stepped rim (twice to avoid a leak where the ratchet is).

I'd expect to learn a few new phrases the first time I tried it.

Best of luck,
Larry



 
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mike h

Posts: 10

Joined: 2004-10-24

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Subject : RE: Veneering drum shells
Posted : 2005-01-08 10:10 PM
Post #31978 - In reply to #31955

Larry,

I have tried to invision what you have described, but I am kind of lost.


 
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Larry Root

 
Subject : RE: Veneering drum shells
Posted : 2005-01-12 6:45 AM
Post #31983 - In reply to #31978

Mike,

Take a sock, reach inside to the toe, pull it HALF-WAY inside out untill the toe just sticks past the ankle. You now have a two-waled fabric sleave that's sealed at one end by the fold and open at the other (the ankle/toe). Cut off a several inch long piece of toilet paper tube and slip it over the toe but inside the ankle. Cut off the toe, slip your wrist into the opening, wrap a rubber band around your wrist. You now have the tube trapped inside the double walled sleave sealed by your wrist and the rubber band.

The drum shell replaces the toilet paper tube. Buy or make a "lay-flat tube" larger in diameter than the drum shell, it replaces the sock; the band clamp replaces the rubber band; the MDF disk, your wrist. If the MDF disk were flat sided, you'd have a heck of a time keeping the band on while you tightened it; by making the disk with a grooved lip, the groove will trap the band clamp and make it easier to seal. At issue would be how deep to make the groove -- more than a 1/4 inch and I'd worry that the folds in the plastic would create leaks, less than an 1/8 and it might be too shallow to make a difference: So I guessed a diameter difference of 1/4 - 1/2 inch between the center disk (the groove) and the two outer disks (the lips).

Hope this helps. If you've still got a question, I'll email you.

Larry


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