Roger Barga
Posts: 19
Joined: 2003-07-09
Location: Seattle, WA
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I consider myself a beginner at veneering but have successfully cut three radial match tops over the past few weeks, following instructions provided by Paul Schurch (Schurch Woodworks). I cut all the leaves simultaneously. Below I've outlined the steps I follow - hopefully this will be of help and possibly others will chime in with their advice.
1. sort through your leaves of veneer sheet by sheet and attempt to align them, possibly using a feature such as a blemish or unique figuring. As you well know, this will likely require shifting the sheets a fair bit to return them to their "natural" position. When you're done, use strips of blue tape to secure the packet and keep them from shifting when cutting. For a 32 way match I actually drove half inch pin nails in the four corners, bending the ends over to secure the packet. At this point you have a pretty hefty bundle of veneer (I usually include a couple extra sheets, in case one gets damaged during the process).
2. position your radial template over the bundle to achieve the desired effect (herringbone) and draw a cut line along one edge of the packet. At this point you know where the point of your radial match will be on the packet - if you are working with brittle veneer (burl) then consider loosening the tape and apply gum tape to each sheet where the point will be (this will help prevent the delicate points from breaking off).
3. remove the radial template and replace with a stout straight edge. I have applied 100 grit sandpaper to the bottom of my cutting guide - this will help keep the veneer packet from sliding around as you cut. I even clamp the far end of the cutting guide to my bench, effectively pinning the packet under the guide. Now begin gently cutting the packet along the guide using your veneer saw, being careful to keep it perfectly vertical as you cut. Take your time and make several passes until you have cut through the packet.
4. remove the packet from under the straight edge and using a sanding block (80 grit sandpaper adhered to a long straight block of wood) to clean up the cut. If there was chipping or your cut waivered, keep working the sanding block until you get a clean straight edge. I use a shooting board to secure the packet while I'm doing this, but you could simply hold the packet down with your hand.
5. replace the template over the packet, lining up one edge of the template with the newly cut edge. Again trace a cut line along the remaining edge. You may wish to consider moving this line over a bit to give yourself extra material in the radial match which can be trimmed later.
6. Repeat step #3, followed by step #4. At this point you have all the pieces for your radial match cut and ready to assemble. FYI - since I usually add two extra sheets, I discard the top sheet that might have a pencil line in the wood (nothing like noticing a dark line under your finish and realize it was your cut line marking).
Good Luck,
Roger
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