Veneering Forum : Veneering Forum : Gluing post assembly... I'm stuck!

	[ Register \| Logon \| Control Panel ]
	[ View Forum \| Search Forum ]

Darryl Keil

Last Activity 2026-01-12 8:29 AM
5 replies, 2131 viewings

Navigate threads:
< Previous Thread :: Next Thread >

^ Top

Mark Denoncourt

Subject : Gluing post assembly... I'm stuck!
Posted : 2000-11-04 9:39 PM
Post #30852

I've gone and assembled a pair of rectangular speaker enclosures from MDF. They measure about 12in. on each front, back and side surface by 43in. tall. The front fascia also has a 1/2in. round over edge on the right and left sides. I wanted to cover them after assembly with paper backed veneer (with contact cement) but after learning more about veneering and the limited types of paper backed species of wood, I've decided to purchase raw veneer (english yew) and attempt a first class job. Of course you can see my problem, the cabinets now assembled, I believe force me to use either the hot iorn/ tite bond glue route or iron on glue sheets? What would be your recomendation? And where can I learn more about these two techniques if either are appropriate?Thanks!

^ Top

Darryl Keil

Subject : Gluing post assembly... I'm stuck!
Posted : 2000-11-06 8:53 AM
Post #30859 - In reply to #30852

Dear Mark,As you may know from reading my other responses, I am not a big fan of the iron on technique. I believe it does have its place but think it is way over used.With that said, I understand your situation. My recommendation would be to use the iron on glue sheet. With the iron being used either way I recommend paper backed veneer as it is more stablized to handle the extreme heat you will be applying very localized. Try Oakwood veneer, they specialize in paper backed veneer and have a great selection. There number is 1-800-426-6018SincerelyDarryl Keil: I've gone and assembled a pair of rectangular speaker enclosures from : MDF. They measure about 12in. on each front, back and side surface by : 43in. tall. The front fascia also has a 1/2in. round over edge on the : right and left sides. I wanted to cover them after assembly with : paper backed veneer (with contact cement) but after learning more : about veneering and the limited types of paper backed species of : wood, I've decided to purchase raw veneer (english yew) and attempt a : first class job. Of course you can see my problem, the cabinets now : assembled, I believe force me to use either the hot iorn/ tite bond : glue route or iron on glue sheets? What would be your recomendation? : And where can I learn more about these two techniques if either are : appropriate?: Thanks!

^ Top

Mark Denoncourt

Subject : Gluing post assembly... I'm stuck!
Posted : 2000-11-06 11:03 AM
Post #30860 - In reply to #30859

After reading your reply (Darryl) I found out the price of the paper backed Yew I want to use and it comes out to twice the cost of raw Yew veneer and with the cost of the glue sheet I'll be spending even more. What about glueing and pressing with weights? I know this sounds crude compaired to vacuum pressing or other ways. Could I work on one side of the enclosure at a time and after coating the MDF with glue and putting the veneer in place; place a sheet of 3/4 MDF on top and weigh this down with bags of sand (40# bags say about 3 or 4 high? The surfaces of the cabinets are very true to begin with. What would I need, or would I need a layer of material between the veneer and the pressing board to even the pressure on the veneer (or will MDF flex/deform enough to apply even pressure on the veneer?) Like a sheet of a compressable material- say 1/8 in. rubber? How much weight would I need on top? Per sq ft? The cabinet walls are very thick 1 1/2in. and braced internally with 3/4in baltic birch ply and would be able to take a hundred pounds per sq ft without any deformation. Sorry to fill this post with a gush of questions. And please pick out the flaws in my logic if this is not do-able.Thanks Again!PS. The front fascia will have to be vacuum bagged or hot glued because of the round over but that is not affixed at this point! Thank goodness.

^ Top

Darryl Keil

Subject : Gluing post assembly... I'm stuck!
Posted : 2000-11-09 8:36 PM
Post #30875 - In reply to #30860

Dear Mark,Sorry for the slow reply, sometimes I dont see additions to the slightly older messages.As far as your speakers go, you would need way more weight that you can get by using some kind of weights. Try around a couple thousand pounds per square foot, thats about what a vacuum press puts down and that is less than conventional presses. Iron on may be your only option unless you plan to get a vacuum press.SincerelyDarryl Keil: After reading your reply (Darryl) I found out the price of the paper backed Yew I want to use and it comes out to twice the cost of raw Yew veneer and with the cost of the glue sheet I'll be spending even more. What about glueing and pressing with weights? I know this sounds crude compaired to vacuum pressing or other ways. Could I work on one side of the enclosure at a time and after coating the MDF with glue and putting the veneer in place; place a sheet of 3/4 MDF on top and weigh this down with bags of sand (40# bags say about 3 or 4 high? The surfaces of the cabinets are very true to begin with. What would I need, or would I need a layer of material between the veneer and the pressing board to even the pressure on the veneer (or will MDF flex/deform enough to apply even pressure on the veneer?) Like a sheet of a compressable material- say 1/8 in. rubber? How much weight would I need on top? Per sq ft? The cabinet walls are very thick 1 1/2in. and braced internally with 3/4in baltic birch ply and would be able to take a hundred pounds per sq ft without any deformation. Sorry to fill this post with a gush of questions. And please pick out the flaws in my logic if this is not do-able.: Thanks Again!: PS. The front fascia will have to be vacuum bagged or hot glued because of the round over but that is not affixed at this point! Thank goodness.

^ Top

Mark Denoncourt

Subject : Source for iron on glue sheet?
Posted : 2000-11-10 11:06 AM
Post #30876 - In reply to #30875

Thanks for the insight, Where can I purchase iron on film and are there more than one brand of sheets, is it ok to use the 22.2mil bubble free veneer (BFV which is a five ply -wood veneer, melamime/resin acrylic, center paper layer, melamime/resin acrylic and bottom paper layer; note some of these layers are thermoset glue layers) or plain 10mil paper backed?

^ Top

Darryl Keil

Subject : Source for iron on glue sheet?
Posted : 2000-11-13 8:11 AM
Post #30878 - In reply to #30876

Dear Mark,I think you can get iron on sheets from Oakwood Veneer but Im not sure. They have an 800 number you should be able to get. You can use iron on sheet under any type of veneer as the heat is not hot enough to delaminate the layers.SincerelyDarryl Keil: Thanks for the insight, Where can I purchase iron on film and are there more than one brand of sheets, is it ok to use the 22.2mil bubble free veneer (BFV which is a five ply -wood veneer, melamime/resin acrylic, center paper layer, melamime/resin acrylic and bottom paper layer; note some of these layers are thermoset glue layers) or plain 10mil paper backed?

Navigate threads:
< Previous Thread :: Next Thread >

Legend			Notification
Administrator Forum Moderator	Registered User Unregistered User			Toggle e-mail notification

Running MegaBBS ASP Forum Software v1.5.14b public beta