Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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Keith

 
Subject : Panel for exterior door
Posted : 2002-05-14 2:33 PM
Post #29137
I'm building an exterior door (frame and panel construction) that will be 1 3/4" thick Honduras Mahogany. Tell me if this plan for the panels is flawed. I want the panels to end up about 1 1/2" thick so I planned to make a sandwich of mdf with venners on the faces. BTW, the panels will be 10" x 44" (the top of the door is glazed). Should I use a 1" piece between two 1/4" pieces of mdf or 3 1/2" pieces of mdf to get my thickness? With either method should I glue veneers and core layers all at once? When completed would you still allow this panel to float in the frame or can it be glued in?Thanks, Keith



 
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Darryl Keil

 
Subject : Panel for exterior door
Posted : 2002-05-16 9:46 AM
Post #29145 - In reply to #29137
Dear Keith,In addition to all the things John has said, be sure you use an exterior grade of MDF since you are making and exterior door. If you have a hard time getting exterior MDF you may want to consider MDO which is a resin paper covered plywood sign makers use for exterior signs.SincerelyDarryl Keil: I'm building an exterior door (frame and panel construction) that : will be 1 3/4" thick Honduras Mahogany. Tell me if this plan for the : panels is flawed. I want the panels to end up about 1 1/2" thick so : I planned to make a sandwich of mdf with venners on the faces. BTW, : the panels will be 10" x 44" (the top of the door is glazed). Should : I use a 1" piece between two 1/4" pieces of mdf or 3 1/2" pieces of : mdf to get my thickness? With either method should I glue veneers : and core layers all at once? When completed would you still allow : this panel to float in the frame or can it be glued in?: Thanks, Keith




 
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keith

 
Subject : Panel for exterior door
Posted : 2002-05-16 1:49 PM
Post #29146 - In reply to #29145
: Dear Keith,: In addition to all the things John has said, be sure you use an exterior grade of MDF since you are making and exterior door. If you have a hard time getting exterior MDF you may want to consider MDO which is a resin paper covered plywood sign makers use for exterior signs.: Sincerely: Darryl Keil: : I'm building an exterior door (frame and panel construction) that : : will be 1 3/4" thick Honduras Mahogany. Tell me if this plan for the : : panels is flawed. I want the panels to end up about 1 1/2" thick so : : I planned to make a sandwich of mdf with venners on the faces. BTW, : : the panels will be 10" x 44" (the top of the door is glazed). Should : : I use a 1" piece between two 1/4" pieces of mdf or 3 1/2" pieces of : : mdf to get my thickness? With either method should I glue veneers : : and core layers all at once? When completed would you still allow : : this panel to float in the frame or can it be glued in?: : Thanks, KeithDarrylExterior grade mdf is tough to find here in the Dallas area. BTW, the door I'm building has a glass storm door between it and the elements for protection and never gets direct sunlight. Still think the ext. grade is best?




 
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John Randazzo

 
Subject : Panel for exterior door
Posted : 2002-05-15 9:08 AM
Post #29138 - In reply to #29137
Keith, Your plan sounds fine. I would use the 3 pieces of 1/2 mdf because then you only have to buy 1 thickness of material.You can glue up the mdf and the veneer all at the same time as long as you make your panels oversized and cut them to size later. I have made doors similar to this and dadoed the panels in place and have never had a problem, mostly because hond. mahog. is one of the most stable woods. Good luck, John.




 
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Keith

 
Subject : Panel for exterior door
Posted : 2002-05-15 11:40 AM
Post #29139 - In reply to #29138
: Keith, Your plan sounds fine. I would use the 3 pieces of 1/2 mdf because then you only have to buy 1 thickness of material.You can glue up the mdf and the veneer all at the same time as long as you make your panels oversized and cut them to size later. I have made doors similar to this and dadoed the panels in place and have never had a problem, mostly because hond. mahog. is one of the most stable woods. Good luck, John.John,Thanks for the feedback. As you may have guessed I'm new to vacuum veneering. A follow-up question: What I might want to do is have a reveal on this panel which means rabbeting around the edges about a 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide. If I edge-band the 3 ply mdf sandwich with solid mahogany about 1" wide I can create this reveal and still show real wood instead of mdf. It seems in this scenario that I would first glue-up the 3 1/2" mdf sheets, then cut to size, use bisquits to attach solid edge banding, and the veneer over this assembly. Am I on the right track or do you see problems here?Thanks again, Keith




 
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John Randazzo

 
Subject : Panel for exterior door
Posted : 2002-05-15 7:35 PM
Post #29143 - In reply to #29139
: : Keith, Your plan sounds fine. I would use the 3 pieces of 1/2 mdf because then you only have to buy 1 thickness of material.You can glue up the mdf and the veneer all at the same time as long as you make your panels oversized and cut them to size later. I have made doors similar to this and dadoed the panels in place and have never had a problem, mostly because hond. mahog. is one of the most stable woods. Good luck, John.: John,: Thanks for the feedback. As you may have guessed I'm new to vacuum veneering. A follow-up question: What I might want to do is have a reveal on this panel which means rabbeting around the edges about a 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide. If I edge-band the 3 ply mdf sandwich with solid mahogany about 1" wide I can create this reveal and still show real wood instead of mdf. It seems in this scenario that I would first glue-up the 3 1/2" mdf sheets, then cut to size, use bisquits to attach solid edge banding, and the veneer over this assembly. Am I on the right track or do you see problems here?: Thanks again, KeithKeith, That should work fne. good luck, John.




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