Darryl Keil Last Activity 2024-10-10 3:42 PM
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Brent Longtin

Posts: 37

Joined: 2007-10-09
Location: Natick, MA

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Subject : Veneering an edge
Posted : 2009-01-01 5:15 PM
Post #35160

I need to veneer a one inch thick, 31" diameter, hemispherical edge of a table top. One book suggests doing this by applying the veneer to the fresh glue on the edge and follow along behind it with a hot iron pressed on the veneer to set up the glue. I intendd to use Titebond veneer glue. Does anybody have any experience with this technique or other suggestions.


 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: Veneering an edge
Posted : 2009-01-01 10:15 PM
Post #35161 - In reply to #35160

hi brent,

yes i do this quite a bit. make sure you keep the iron moving and have it set just below the wool setting. too know when the glue has set up enough watch the bubbling that occurs with the glue. once it stops bubbling you can move your iron down the edge.

your last section will be the tricky one as you have to make the joint.(or so i assume). the first piece you start with should be squared 90 degrees both ends. butt your next piece working your way to the end .

the secret is patience. just because the glue has been set with heat don't assume its ready to be worked. give it a least two hours after your edges are veneered before trimming and flushing up the top edges.

dont be stingy with the glue on the edges, depending on the core , be it MDF, particle board or plywood the edges will suck up the glue.

when you apply the iron to the edge you should apply moderate pressure, not a lot but enough to get a nice flat veneer edge.

i assume your table top will be on edge when you do this so remember the glue will want to run down both the face and the underside of your top so mask of the face with at least 1 inch blue tape and have a wet rag for clean up.

craig


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: Veneering an edge
Posted : 2009-01-02 8:12 PM
Post #35162 - In reply to #35161

Am I reading your post correctly, Craig, that the veneer and iron are applied while the glue is still wet? Everything I had seen to date with irons and PVA was allowing the glue to become dry to the touch, then re-liquifying the glue with heat from the iron, applied through the veneer. I think I did this with some veneer to edge a round table, and there wasn't any glue runs.

Are there advantages to working with the glue wet that outweigh the runs and need to mask off areas?

Thanks for sharing yet another secret.

Don


 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: Veneering an edge
Posted : 2009-01-02 8:43 PM
Post #35163 - In reply to #35162

hi Don,

I confess I've never tried the method you spoke of , I have heard of it but never gave it a try.

As far as the advantages to my method, "instant gratification" is my only defense. Patience is not one of my better qualities.

Then of course there's the "time is money" thing .

not to say that every project will result in glue running all over like niagra falls but i use a lot of glue and that's what happens for me.

after being "button hooked " by 100k so called edgebander's, getting call backs for edges delaminating from door edges and the such I've learned my lesson.

I will try your method on a sample though just to say I did.


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1453

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Veneering an edge
Posted : 2009-01-02 9:45 PM
Post #35164 - In reply to #35160

Brent,

Like Craig, I have done the iron on thing in some situations but I'm not a real fan of it.

If you're willing to go to a little more length consider doing it this way. Apply glue to the table edge but only about three quarters of it. Put the veneer on with the overlap of the two ends in the unglued area. On top of this put a 1 1/8" layer of 3/8" bending ply and then use a band clamp on top of the bending ply with the ratchet mechanism in the unglued area as well.

After this has dried, remove the band clamp and bending ply. Where the veneer overlaps in the unglued area, cut through with a sharp knife and repeat the above process. Move the ratchet mechanism of the band clamp around to the opposite side or at least away from the last quarter of the edge that you are gluing for a second time.

Hope this makes sense. Its a little more work but I feel yields a better bond.

Darryl Keil


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