Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-02-12 2:48 PM
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Jim Clement

Posts: 18

Joined: 2007-03-06
Location: Seattle

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Subject : Another marquetry question - filling saw kerfs
Posted : 2007-06-25 1:16 AM
Post #33873
I'm laboriously teaching myself marquetry, and seeking some advice. I'm using Paul Schurch's packet cutting techinque of batching the entire picture on one sawing session, assembling the picture, then pressing it. The recommended scroll saw blade is a few thousanths of an inch thick, leaving a visible kerf after assemble and pressing. How do you experienced marquetiers (i.e. Brian) fill this kerf? I'm tryng epoxy as a filler now, but I can see that I might have to use 2 (or more) coats of epoxy. Also, all the vigorous sanding needed to level the epoxy has me worried about sand-through. I do like the way the epoxy dries dark, highlighting the kerf, such as in leaf veins.

I'm also seeing the veneer (especially mahogany) absorb some of the epoxy, lessening the filler effect - this is probably why I'm thinking a second coat will be needed. If epoxy is the method of choice, what about a sealer coat of shellac prior to the epoxy? A further question - I've filled some small voids or chip-outs in individual pieces with melt-in shellac sticks. Any idea what spraying shellac on top of shellac stick does to the shellac stick patch?


 
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Bruce Berman

Posts: 20

Joined: 2005-06-01
Location: Pittsburgh, Pa., USA

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Subject : RE: Another marquetry question - filling saw kerfs
Posted : 2007-06-25 5:37 PM
Post #33878 - In reply to #33873
Jim,
Epoxy is an excellent. There are some tricks that make it easier. A wash coat of sander sealer or shellac(?) is a good idea to control absorbion. Epoxy, before it cures, washes off with mineral spirits, which has no effect on the lacquer sander sealer. With carefull diligence you can wipe off the excess epoxy on either side of you seams. This allows you to sand off the narrow ridge of epoxy with out sanding away too much of your veneer. It also helps eliminate that halo affect of the epoxy filling the grain around your seams which as you noticed is a problem if you use wood filler. Using shellac may not hold up to wiping with mineral spirits . You will have to test it.


AS for shellac patches. A wet coat of shellac will high-light the perimeter of the patch where the shellac repair is thin. Practice applying the right amount that will apply new material with out dissolving the edges of the patch.

Good luck
Bruce Berman
Miracle Venerr Trimmer


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: Another marquetry question - filling saw kerfs
Posted : 2007-06-25 6:26 PM
Post #33879 - In reply to #33878

Bruce is right in that shellac will create a nice barrier, but I don't like to use epoxy (my 2 cents). It's very unforgiving once it hardens. I would hate to have to have to sand one LEEEETLE spot of epoxy off at the risk of harming the veneer, or worse yet, having the epoxy lift a chunk of veneer if you had to chisel at it.

I just use Famowood filler. First, wipe with shellac. Famowood is acetone based, so the shellac will not allow any of the Famowood to penetrate into your veneer...only the gaps. Take some Famowood and mix it with acetone to make it a little thinner and easier to work with.

Then a putty knife to fill all the voids. I then like to wetsand with some 400 silicon carbide paper and acetone, VERY lightly. This evens out the surface, and then a clean rag can wipe off the excess. Repeat if necessary.

Another reason for Famowood - it's cheap, and there's a myriad of colors to choose from.

Not to put down the epoxy method, just my 2 cents and preference.


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: Another marquetry question - filling saw kerfs
Posted : 2007-06-25 6:32 PM
Post #33880 - In reply to #33879
Also - if you don't own Paul's videos, I would say definitely get them. He covers this and many other topics very well.

I would also recommend Silas Kopf's video. If you don't want to deal with the gap at all, then bevel cut like Silas does.

I've studied with both Paul and Silas. They both have very different approaches that lead to amazing results. It's nice to have both approaches under the belt.


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: Another marquetry question - filling saw kerfs
Posted : 2007-06-28 10:25 AM
Post #33909 - In reply to #33879
By the way, I would like to retract my statement about wet-sanding lightly with 400 grit and acetone.

I used to do this, and I forgot that I gave it up, as it's pretty easy to sand through the shellac...even if you are doing it super-light.

Now I just use an acetone-wet rag instead. Then a dry rag to clean up.
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