Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-02-12 2:48 PM
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Jeff Patrick


Joined: 2004-04-15
Location: Bainbridge Island, WA

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Subject : Backer veneer???
Posted : 2007-06-21 1:03 PM
Post #33864
I'm wondering about what to use for backer veneer. I'm about to start a console/cabinet, but the question pertains to a lot of different work. If the face veneer is flitch sawn stuff, Unibond bound, vac pressed.... what about the unseen backer? In the immediate project, the interior will be filled with drawers, thus the surface will not normally be visable. Is paper-backed or two-ply just as good to use as flitch veneer in this case? Some say that it isn't necessarily the veneer itself that is necessary for balance, but the fact that something is glued to the back. Phenolic sheets are even suggested as being appropriate.

This next project has no real price limit, but I don't want to be crazy either. A paper backed maple would look fine but I don't want any warpage in the panels. The exterior will be figured English Sycamore, although as I implied earlier, I don't know that the question is specific to species.

Thanks for any and all thoughts.

Jeff


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1454

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Backer veneer???
Posted : 2007-06-21 10:12 PM
Post #33865 - In reply to #33864
Jeff,

I've always been a fan of backer grade mahogany. Its nice and stable, comes wide so there aren't many seam, and generally looks good as a backer.

In terms of balance and stability, the kind of backer used depends on the panels application and size. If its a free swinging inset door I would use a veneer of the same species or at least similar density, like walnut front and mahogany back, cherry front maple back. I would never mix unbacked and backed veneer in this situation. Now if its a fixed panel and not too large then a raw veneer on the front with a paper backed veneer on the back would be fine. The phenolic backers would be fine as well.

Yes, different veneers have different effects on a panels stability but in many situations its not enough to bother about. Your right that the more important issue is having glue lines on both sides of a panel.

In general, but not always, I tend to be somewhat cautious and play it safe in this regard. I would rather spend a little more time and money for a similar veneer on the back than have problems with the job and have to redo something.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Jeff Patrick


Joined: 2004-04-15
Location: Bainbridge Island, WA

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Subject : RE: Backer veneer???
Posted : 2007-06-22 1:31 PM
Post #33866 - In reply to #33865
Darryl,

Thanks for the reply. You've confirmed my thoughts in this matter.

Jeff


 
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Bruce Berman

Posts: 20

Joined: 2005-06-01
Location: Pittsburgh, Pa., USA

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Subject : RE: Backer veneer???
Posted : 2007-06-23 8:12 PM
Post #33867 - In reply to #33865
Jeff,

I agree with everything in Darryl's reply but would advise caution concerning the phenolic backed material. As you know, the need for a backer results from the restraint in expasion of your core by the non-movement of the veneer layer in the direction of the grain. The phenolic backer tends to restrain movement in both directions like plastic laminate. Even used as a cabinet side you could get a warped panel along the free edge.
In general we only use pheolic backer with plastic laminate.

Bruce Berman
Miracle Veneer Trimmer


 
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Bruce Berman

Posts: 20

Joined: 2005-06-01
Location: Pittsburgh, Pa., USA

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Subject : RE: Backer veneer???
Posted : 2007-06-23 8:13 PM
Post #33868 - In reply to #33865



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