Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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Douglas

Posts: 11

Joined: 2006-12-05
Location: WILKES-BARRE,PA

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Subject : veneer checking
Posted : 2007-01-02 4:14 PM
Post #33527
I recently posted a topic on a finish cracking, but found out it was the curly maple veneer.We did flat panels,3/4 MDF,curly maple front,plain maple back,plastic resin glue,finished both sides.Veneer shrunk slightly causing small cracks in the finish,stripped every thing down to bare wood.There is no delamination at all.It's been about ten days, dry shop air,checked with moisture meter, 6%, should have checked before pressing,oh well.Question is the checks are very small and almost undetectable, like to refinish, going to wait, but will this shrinking continue will these checks get larger, should this stop at some point, any one ever have this happen or get worst after some time. The moisture was most likely from the flatting process and not properly dried,always in a hurry, the Mdf was probably 6% or so,I would think.Thanks to anyone who could give me some advise,there's a lot of panels hate to redo them if I don't have to.


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: veneer checking
Posted : 2007-01-04 10:32 PM
Post #33528 - In reply to #33527
Douglas,

Hearing that you had flattened your veneer and it wasn't completely dry before pressing, I'm going to guess that this is the real culprit. Veneer should be bone dry before gluing.

At this point you may want to skim coat with epoxy and then sand back to bare veneer. This should encapsulate the veneer and hold the existing fissures from moving.

There could be another issue that I think someone else mentioned which is that veneer fractures to some extent when being cut. Over the years I have noticed some veneers are worse than others in this regards. I wonder if it comes from a dull knife or a log not soaked enough, I cant say for sure.

If your veneer has this condition to some extent it would definitely be worsened by not being fully dried before pressing.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Douglas

Posts: 11

Joined: 2006-12-05
Location: WILKES-BARRE,PA

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Subject : RE: veneer checking
Posted : 2007-01-05 7:42 AM
Post #33529 - In reply to #33528
Darryl, thanks very much for getting back to me, when you say epoxy do mean adhesive or clear finish. I figure you mean adhesive. What might you recommend and would this be a thin mixture, say able to roll or squeegee on. The checks are almost invisable, the center seam is a little opened on the panels but not worth starting over. I was going to use a oil based natural grain filler to fill any cracks in these natual curly maple panels, but that would not readhere the veneer .I'm using a pre-catalyzed lacquer as a top coat and I wouln't any reaction to the epoxy adhesive. Thanks again on helping me get out of this costly mess.


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: veneer checking
Posted : 2007-01-05 5:52 PM
Post #33530 - In reply to #33529
If it's any consolation, when I flattened some olive ash burl I just assumed after 4 days the veneer would be dry. To make matters worse, since I was veneering some sculpture stand boxes I chickened out on the vacuum bag and used PVA and a hot iron. Several seams opened up to a sixteenth of an inch and I spent hours with touchup powders and shellac. Never needed to flatten veneer since, but purchased a moisture meter just in case. Also, from discussions with Darryl I realized after applying flattening solution I could clamp the veneer in the vacuum bag rather than mechanically on a table top, which might help draw out the moisture.


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: veneer checking
Posted : 2007-01-06 8:36 PM
Post #33536 - In reply to #33529
Douglas,

Yes, I do mean an epoxy adhesive like the West System, MAS, Systems Three.

Once you sand the epoxy off the surface or just sand thoroughly the finish will bond just fine.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil
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