Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-02-12 2:48 PM
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mmelkonian

 
Subject : Bandsaw veneer
Posted : 2005-06-12 10:28 PM
Post #32255
I'm just getting started with veneering especially since I recently aquired a nice bandsaw capable of resawing wideboards. I'm looking for advice on making my own veneers. I've been able to cut some slices of cherry as thin as 1/64" (not consistently) or 1/32" (not too hard) and 1/8" (pretty consistent) No matter what thickness I try the results are not exactly uniform, is there a good way to then thickness the veneer more uniformly? I have a 13"planer which can take a board down to 1/8" but at that thicknes the planner can chew up the board if the grain isn't straight, don't have a drum sander, I assume that might be the better way, is there any other way to take a thin slice cut from a bandsaw and make it more uniform prior to pressing?

Also I'm looking at getting the Compact 100 system, is that the same system sold through Woodcraft?


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: Bandsaw veneer
Posted : 2005-06-13 7:13 AM
Post #32256 - In reply to #32255
A planer is definitely not the way. You either need to invest in a wide belt sander, or enlist the help of someone who owns one. Before I had access to my own wide belt, there were some local cabinet shops that had no problem thicknessing veneer for me for a small fee...look around your area and you'll probably find something.

Also...you sound like you really want to make almost commercial-thick veneer (super-thin). When I saw my own veneer, I really like to make it thicker. My preference is a little less than 1/16th.

I think that there's many advantages to thicker veneer.

The main advantage of thicker veneer is that you can sand on it without getting to the substrate.
With marquetry work, I can get super-detail with tiny, tiny pieces that would normally shatter if they were commercial thickness.
From a logistical standpoint, it's easier to make the thick veneer.
If your piece gets dinged, the repair will most likely not involve a veneer patch...probably just steam a dent.

The downsides to thick veneer is that your selection may be limited to your local lumberyard, and also you really can't dye thick veneer.

Think about this...the only reason that commercial veneer cutters make their veneer so dang thin is so that they get much more yield out of a log. More $$$ per log. I feel that they could make life a lot easier on us if they made their veneer a little thicker.

So bottom line, I don't think that you should be compelled to get your veneer down to extreme thicknesses....my two cents...others may feel different.


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1454

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Bandsaw veneer
Posted : 2005-06-13 9:05 AM
Post #32259 - In reply to #32255
I agree with Brian, you dont need to resaw so thin. In general anything 3/32" or less is stable enough for veneer work.

Clearly having a drum sander would make things a lot easier but there is a way without it. When you resaw you usually have one smooth side, from the planer and one rough side, from the bandsaw. Each time you run the board through the planer after the bandsaw so you always have one smooth side.

When it comes time to press make sure all the planed surfaces are face down against the substrate with the bandsaw side up against the bag. This method does require a vacuum press to work.

The last part requires access to a wide belt sander. Just take your panel to a shop that has one and have them run it through to clean up all the band saw marks. This method also allows you to resaw a bit thicker if need be as a wide belt sander can easily remove a 1/16" or more without any problem. In most locations theres always a shop that will sand other peoples work on an hourly rate basis.

The small press that Woodcraft sells is not our Compact 100. You can get ours through Rockler or direct from us.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Ron Grabler

Posts: 10

Joined: 2003-07-04
Location: Escondido, CA

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Subject : RE: Bandsaw veneer
Posted : 2005-06-15 10:22 PM
Post #32266 - In reply to #32255
<P>One additional item on slicing thin consistent veneer is the set up of your bandsaw and the fences you use.  There are several good books on the Bandsaw subject, one by Lonnie Bird and one by Mark Dugenske which is sort of the standard.  Each time I cut my veneer I make sure my bandsaw is well tuned and in alignment, with a clean sharp blade.  Consistently thick veneer is so much easier to work with.</P><P>Add this to your arsenal of information and you'll be in good shape.</P>


 
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mmelkoian

 
Subject : RE: Bandsaw veneer
Posted : 2005-06-16 8:54 PM
Post #32270 - In reply to #32266
there does seem to be thoughts back and forth on how to set up cutting veneer. Those that say cut it with the veneer on the fence side like the consistency in the slice thickness. But there are those that would say the veneer should be on the outside of the blade to avoid the tendency to waver as the kerf gets closer to the end of the cut. I've tried both ways and see the limitations of each method but in the end I think I like keeping the veneer on the fence side.

By the way, I solved my issue with thicknessing the veneer. I didn't feel like buying yet another machine (drum sander), since I like to stay focused and use the tools I have. I have to remind myself(and wife) that my hobby is woodworking, not tool collecting. I essentialy made a jig for my lathe, an adjustable pivot table and made a large 4" perfect cylinder and wrapped the same exact sanding strip used for a Performax drum sander around it and now I have myself a thickness sander. I'll try to attach a pic. It still needs some refining and I'm going to design a fence like part to keep my fingers away from the drum, I need them for my day job, hard to operate on people without them
Attached file : IMG_2120.jpg (41KB - 447 downloads)
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