Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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William Payne

 
Subject : Stuhr-type in-line sanders
Posted : 2004-09-22 1:35 PM
Post #31761

Hi, My machinery guy has suggested that an ideal method for sanding a panel covered in a commercial (ie. 1/40 inch) veneer is to use an air-powered in-line sander such as a Stuhr. Does anyone have any experience using these machines? They are not cheap ($500), but after some research it's clear they are highly regarded for fine finish sanding and polishing. I don't like the idea of orbital sanders, which most half-sheet sanders are. Any experience out there? My first thought was to try the Festool half-sheet...that's how I got onto this. Thanks.


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Stuhr-type in-line sanders
Posted : 2004-09-27 5:42 PM
Post #31771 - In reply to #31761

William,

Im not sure anyone that views this forum is a regular user of this in-line sander for veneer so I thought I would jump in and give my two cents.

Personally I have not used these sanders for this purposed either and the one I had was such a compressed air hog I stopped using it at all.

For veneer I am fairly pleased with this process. A once over with a cabinet scraper, then 100 grit on a DA sander until the veneer surface is leveled. From there I work up with a half sheet sander, mine is a fairly old Rockwell.

The other option which I really like is to carefully clean up the panel with a wide belt sander and then use the half sheet sander from there. If you dont have one Im sure there is one you can go to in your area. Start with the back of panel to level it. I run a pencil across the panel at both ends and the middle. When the marks are removed I have the operator turn it over and start on the other side. If you completely take the pencil marks off in one pass, in my opinion, thats too aggressive. I like to see the marks be removed in two passes.

Its usually not worth it to take your panel to someone if there is only one, but for a number of them its the way I would go.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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William Payne

 
Subject : RE: Stuhr-type in-line sanders
Posted : 2004-10-07 9:09 AM
Post #31792 - In reply to #31771

Thanks for the input Darryl and Steve. I just talked with a guy who works at Stickley (I live just down the road from the Stickley factory), and he said they use these machines in the finishing department, primarily for polishing. Yes...they are air hogs! I have also learned that the Stuhr company was bought out by Cooper Tools, and I don't think they have done a very good job in the marketing department with the transition since they are hard to find. Here is a URL for anyone who may be interested:
http://www.coopertools.com/onlinecatalog/index.cfm?fuseaction=modellist&fl=Power%20Tools&sl=Material%20Removal&tl=Grinder/Sanders&brand=Stuhr

Thanks...I think I may take the plunge and try to pick up a Festool half-sheet.




 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: Stuhr-type in-line sanders
Posted : 2004-10-10 12:30 PM
Post #31797 - In reply to #31792

HI WILLIAM,
THE PROPER METHOD FOR SANDING A VENEERED TOP IS A BUFFERING WIDE BELT SANDER, OR A HESSMAN VENEER POLISHER. THESE OF COURSE ARE EXPENSIVE BUT THERE ARE SHOPS WHO HAVE THEM. I AM A VENDOR FOR STICKLEY DOING PRIMARILY THE VENEERED TOPS FOR STICKLEY, I'M LOCATED IN SYRACUSE. I DONT THINK THE FINISHING DEPARTMENT USES THESE TYPE OF SANDERS FOR "SANDING" PER SAY, BUT MORE FOR POLISHING THE FINISH. THE TOPS I SUPPLY HAVE TO BE SANDED AND READY TO FINISH PRIOR TO REACHING THE FACTORY.
THESE LARGE MORE EXPENSIVE WIDE BELT SANDERS HAVE PRECISE DIGITAL CALIBRATION AND VACUUM HOLD DOWN BED TO PRECISELY SAND TO A CALIBRATED THICKNESS. AS WELL AS HAVE SEGMENTED PLATENS FOR THE OCCASIONAL ODD BALL THICKNESS.

IN MY EXPERINCE, ANY SANDER ROTATING IN A CIRCLE IS AN ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN. DYNABRADE'S AND STANDARD ORBITALS ARE FAR TO AGGRESSIVE. BEFORE YOU HAVE A CHANCE TO BLINK YOU COULD BE LOOKING AT SUBSTRATE.

WE USE A SPECIAL METHOD TO REMOVE VENEER TAPE . THIS METOHD DOES NOT INCLUDE SANDING , WETTING OR SCRAPING THE TAPE OFF. ONCE THE TAPE IS OFF, I SEND THE TOPS THRU A WIDE BELT SANDER, ONCE, ANY ONLY ONCE. THIS IS DONE NOT TO SAND THE SURFACE BUT TO LEVEL THE SURFACE. THE FACE WAS ALREADY SANDED PRIOR TO PRESSING THE FACE ON TO THE TOP. HOW? TWO PLY. I CANT STESS THIS PROCEDURE ENOUGH. IT'S FAR LESS EXPENSIVE TO THROW AWAY A FACE THAN TO TRY TO REPAIR AN FINISHED TOP. IT STILL HURTS BUT NOT AS MUCH. THE PROCESS IS A SIMPLE AND INEXPENSIVE ONE, AND IT YEILDS A BETTER PRODUCT.
ME ALSO MAKE EXTENSIVE USE OF VENEER TAPE, USE EVIAN OR AN EQUIVILENT. AS FAR AS WATER IS CONCERNED. DO NOT LEAVE WATER IN YOUR DISPENSOR , THE WHEEL BELOW THE TOP WHEEL GENERATES RUST IN THE WATER SO CHANGE THE WATER OFTEN. YOU'LL REGRET IT IF YOU DON'T. JUST WHEN YOU THINK YOUR SAILING ALONG, THERE IT IS , THE UNEXPLAINED BLUE OR BLACK STAIN ON YOUR LAY UP. CHEMICALS AND OTHER PROPERTIES IN REGULAR TAP WATER JUST DONT COOPERATE WITH SOME SPECIES SUCH AS CHERRY, MAPLE AND OAK.

ONCE YOU HAVE A LEVEL SURFACE, FINISH SANDER. THEN HARD BLOCK HAND SAND WITH CORK GLUED TO THE BOTTOM OF THE BLOCK. AFTER FINISHING USE A HARD BLOCK WITHOUT THE CORK ON THE BOTTOM. FOR A GOOD SANDED FINISH YOU CAN NOT AVOID HAND SANDING. HOPE THIS HELPS


 
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Steve Jenkins

Posts: 15

Joined: 2003-12-19
Location: Dallas,TX

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Subject : RE: Stuhr-type in-line sanders
Posted : 2004-09-29 10:54 AM
Post #31773 - In reply to #31761

William, I have the big brother to that one. It weighs 35lbs. yup really. I don't use it much for sanding wood but use it for wetsanding and rubbing out table tops. Works great for that. I have occasionly used it on veneer and it works fine but I generally use an airpowered random orbit sander for the final sanding and for the first sanding I just use my 4x24 belt sander. I will say that it takes a bit of practice to feel comfortable using a belt sander on veneer but once you get used to it it works really well. Steve


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