Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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Doug Honabach

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Joined: 2004-06-14

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Subject : Veneering Drawers with Half-Blind Dovetails
Posted : 2004-06-15 12:12 AM
Post #31583

I need to build 34 drawers in 17 sizes using rabetted half-blind dovetails. Ugh. The larges drawer will be 12" tall and 20" wide. I am hesitant to veneer the panels before cutting the joinery because of the high risk of damaging the veneer, but veneering the back of the drawer fronts after cutting the joinery will change the joinery fit. The drawer fronts will be mahogany or qs sapelle and the veneer will be pommele sapelle. Can I get away with just veneering the front of the drawer fronts? Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks.


 
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Steve Jenkins

Posts: 15

Joined: 2003-12-19
Location: Dallas,TX

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Subject : RE: Veneering Drawers with Half-Blind Dovetails
Posted : 2004-06-15 6:53 AM
Post #31585 - In reply to #31583

Doug, not an answer to your question but can you make the drawer boxes and put on a false front after? I typically make all my drawers this way and it greatly simplifies things. Steve


 
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Darryl Keil

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Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Veneering Drawers with Half-Blind Dovetails
Posted : 2004-06-16 10:16 PM
Post #31599 - In reply to #31583

Doug,

Well, its all a matter of degree and what's acceptable to you. You largest drawer front is as big as a cabinet door which will warp to some extent without veneering the back side. You do have a couple of things going for you. One solid wood resists warping better that plywood or MDF and your drawer bottom should lock things in a bit more as well. If it was me I would veneer both sides ahead of time and be careful during machining.

Steve has a great solution if going that way is acceptable.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Doug Honabach

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Joined: 2004-06-14

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Subject : RE: Veneering Drawers with Half-Blind Dovetails
Posted : 2004-06-17 6:51 PM
Post #31603 - In reply to #31599

Thanks for the advice. I tink I'll probably go ahead and run a test without the veneer on just one side. I'll report back with the results.


 
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Keith Newton

Posts: 4

Joined: 2004-05-25
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas

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Subject : RE: Veneering Drawers with Half-Blind Dovetails
Posted : 2004-06-19 9:32 PM
Post #31609 - In reply to #31583

Doug I have done a fair amount of this kind of thing without any problems, but I would only use epoxy for the adhesive. If your substrate and your veneer are at EMC, you are not changing that. Anytime you are using a water-base adhesive, as soon as you start spreading that you are causing both substrate and veneers to expand, which starts a chain-reaction of events.
The veneer is free to expand more than the substrate, but the face of a solid wood core will almost certainly expand as soon as you add moisture, then as things start to dry, they start to contract until they reach EMC.
So the substrate may returne to its original shape if it were only water that was added, but the glue and the face veneer are wanting to contract to a much greater extent than the face of the substrate, so they are forevermore under tension relative to the substrate, which will make the panels warp relative to that tension, and that is why it is so important to keep a balanced panel under most circumstances.
Epoxy may cost a bit more, but there is no water, or any volitile substance which has to evoporate, so when it kicks the substrate, veneer, and glueline are still at EMC with no built in tension, and actually the epoxy is one of the best moisture-barriers on the market, which will keep the substrate from changing relative to humidity changes better than most finishes. That is why it is so popular for boat building. It can even be used under water for prolonged periods.


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