Darryl Keil Last Activity 2026-01-12 8:29 AM
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Larry Root

 
Subject : Shop sawn veneer -- can one side be left rough & will joinded edge remain?
Posted : 2001-03-03 2:17 PM
Post #30007
I'm planning my first veneer piece. My intent is to resaw some 8" 8/4 cherry that I have so that the panels can be skinned with the same stock that I use on the edging. I have access to a large bandsaw (dwarfs my 14" Delta) and a 16" jointer. I was going to joint both edges and the surface to be sawn. I'll then cut and join in sequence cutting 3/32 - 1/8 pieces. My questions:First, If I leave the bandsawn surface and don't use an upper platten (thereby allowing the bag to conform and avoiding the uneven pressures from the rough stock to smooth platten), will it work? Any problems that I should watch for or things to do to improve my chances?Second, will the jointed edges from the main plank be OK for the veneer or should I plan or re-jointing each piece?Thanks for any suggestions.Respectfully,Larry



 
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Douglas Vincent

 
Subject : Shop sawn veneer -- can one side be left rough & will joinded edge remain?
Posted : 2001-03-03 8:09 PM
Post #30009 - In reply to #30007
I have often done this. The problem with leaving oneside rough is that you are unable to bookmatch the panels. However, if you don't plan to bookmatch, then you don't have to worry. Again, however, is a problem of trying to pull the slices together when the rough sides may be of uneven thicknesses.My procedure is this. I resaw on the table saw usually up to 8"Square up stock on all four sides.Mark a triangle on the butt end for tracking purposes.Rip off one slice of veneer. If stock does not bow and the saw marks are negligble, then rip off another slice and continue. If the material bows, rip slice off other side (if bow is in towards fence.).If the saw marks are bad (ie tip of saw marks don't meet) then I send the board through the jointer.When done slicing the veneer, I then send all the veneer through a drum sander to get even thicknesses.When pressing, I often do not use a platen as the material is so thick but I do use cardboard instead of a platen as it conforms to the material and gives a little better pressing.So far I have had good luck doing this.




 
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Larry Root

 
Subject : Douglas, how thin do you surface it?
Posted : 2001-03-04 7:14 AM
Post #30014 - In reply to #30009
Douglas,Thanks for your reply.I've tried using a surface planer and had no problems down to an 1/8", but I uncomfortable taking it thinner.I've read about but not yet tried putting in a piece of stock with a cleat to avoid the lower rollers. I want to try it because I was interested in a book match for the door panels. (Hadn't thought of that issue until your comment).The cardboard sounds like a good idea, do you use the ripple core or sheet stock? Thanks again.Respectfully,Larry




 
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douglas vincent

 
Subject : Douglas, how thin do you surface it?
Posted : 2001-03-04 6:16 PM
Post #30015 - In reply to #30014
I use a drum sander and take it down to between 3/32th and 1/16th. I usually try to start with slicing it at about an 1/8" or less. I have taken it down to a true 1/32" once but that was a real pain. I run the veneer ontop of a true piece of plywood for support.I use whatever cardboard I have scrounged.douglas vincent




 
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Larry Root

 
Subject : Thanks Douglas NT
Posted : 2001-03-05 7:29 PM
Post #30016 - In reply to #30015





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