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Dennis
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Dear Darryl,Thank you very much for taking the time to answer my questions. I appreciate it very much!Kind regards,Dennis: Dear Dennis,: I would not put a coat of your poly on the veneer before gluing, you will affect the ability of the glue to bond properly. You really can just scrape and sand the bleed thru off afterwards without to much effort. You can size the veneer with a mixture of glue and water if you really want to stop most of the bleed thru. If you do this, make sure the veneer is dead dry again before you press it.: I tend to like to put the compressed side of the veneer up because this is the side with all the raised areas which is easier to bring flat than the other side that has all the small pits. If you hold the veneer up to a good light source and look across the veneer you will be able to see which side is raised and which side is pitted. Of course, if you are book matching no of this will matter because one piece is up and the next one is down.: To get your veneer to go around the bullnose I put the glue directly onto the veneer instead of the substrate and then wet the face side lightly which will help it bend nicely. There is a veneer softener called GF20 but I find the water technique works just fine. : : Sincerely: Darryl Keil: : Dear Darryl,: : Thank you very much for your reply. I have a couple follow up : : questions. I will be using a rub on poly as my finish. Since my : : waterfall bubinga is very porous in spots, to minimize bleedthrough : : of the glue should I apply a coat of wiping poly to the back side of : : the venner before I glue it down? Also would this help minimize : : curling due to the water in the glue?: : I know I am supposed to be able to tell which side of the veneer to : : use as the face but If I can't see any cutter marks etc. does it : : really matter?: : Finally, With raw veneer, especially figured veneer such as mine, is : : it possible to bend the veneer into a 1" radius for a roundover. If : : so do I need to use some sort of plasticizer?: : Thanks again for your advice. I appreciate it very much.: : Regards,: : Dennis : : : Dear Dennis,: : : Since your panels are not that wide I think you can do it fine with : : clamps. I would use two layers of 3/4" particle board on each side : : with clamp every 6". Be sure you have some deep throat ones to reach : : the center of the panel.: : : Urea is the best glue for a very rigid glue line but you can use : : yellow glue depending on what the panels will be used for in the end.: : : Sincerely: : : Darryl Keil: : : : Hi,: : : : I am going to be veneering a project soon. In reading the : : previous : : : : posts I think this might be tougher than I assumed. I have : : unbacked : : : : waterfall bubinga I will be putting over 1.5" MDF. The bubinga is : : : : highly figured and by holding it up to the light looks pretty : : porous : : : : in spots. Luckily my veneer sheets are large enough I won't have : : to : : : : do any book matching, jointing etc. I have read several books on : : : : veneering but feel I need some real world advice. I don't have : : access : : : : to a veneer or vacuum press. I do have lots of clamps.: : : : I would greatly appreciate any advice on the best way to go about : : : : this? (I know the best way would probably be to pay a pro to do : : it : : : : for me but no one in town does) Some concerns I have are best : : glue : : : : (e.g. urea), number of clamps per panel (14"x41"), cauls (do they : : : : really need to be slightly curved) etc.: : : : Thanks again. I appreciate it very very much!: : : : Regards,: : : : Dennis
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