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Darryl Keil
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Scott,When you press up the table, glue the two mdf sheets in the first pressing and apply the veneer in a second one.As far as the edging goes I would approach it one of two ways. 1. Glue it on with extra over hang and flush trim it down to the table or spline it on accurately using a spline bit in a router. Using a router and spline bit gets me quite flush with minimum clean upafterwards.Sure the Hoffman lipping plane is great if you have one but you can make a similar jig for your router using a flush trim bit and a right angle plywood fence that bolts to the router base with the router bit just barely protruding past the fence. You put your hand on the part of the fence that extends onto the table surface to keep the router sticking straight out from the table top.The V-groove in the table is to hide the lack if flushness between the solid edging and veneered top. This is most common in production furniture where taking the extra time to flush it up is to labor intensive. Although the V-groove looks OK I prefer to take the extratime to get it flush and skip the V-groove.Cant help you on sources for the electrical boxes you are looking for. Maybe someone else can help you with this one.SincerelyDarryl Keil: I'm considering my first conference table and would like to get some : pointers on the following items:: 1) Best way to press build up sheets of MDF. Two together in the : press, let dry then backing veneer and finish?: 2) How to best handle the solid wood edge? Not sure how to best : secure and plan/sand flat. Do I need one of those Hoffman type power : hand planers?: 3) Looks like most conference tables have a v-groove between the : veneered top and solid wood edging. Any advise?: 4) Good suppliers for high end electrical/lan boxes? Maybe better : than Mocket in quality?: Thanks
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