Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : Protecting Canvas/Rubber from Glue
Posted : 2012-01-01 11:09 AM
Post #36540

During a test two-ply dry run last week I realized some challenges. when a canvas or natural rubber sheet is used over marquetry to compress slightly different veneer thicknesses evenly, how can the canvas or rubber be protected from glue squeeze-out?

I plan to press the front and back two plies first, and keep the two layers from slipping with packing tape. 4 mil plastic comes out of the package with lots of wrinkles where it was folded over and likes to continue being folded over. My concern is that the extra two thicknesses where it's folded over may create lower spots in the veneer. For those of you with two ply experience, do you cut oversize pieces of plastic film and tape them to the bottom caul after the two ply is placed on top? Last week I tried taping the film to the piece of canvas, with limited success.

Thanks, and hope everyone had a safe New Year's eve.


 
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ckurak

Posts: 107

Joined: 2006-10-28
Location: Florida

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Subject : RE: Protecting Canvas/Rubber from Glue
Posted : 2012-01-02 8:03 AM
Post #36541 - In reply to #36540

Don,

Your concern over the folds causing problems is duly noted. I would be concerned as well. Taping the plastic to the canvas does not sound like a good solution to me either.

I buy my plastic in 10' x 100' ROLLS. The packaging box is about 32" in width. That means the 10' width is folded into four sections to get the 2.5' folded width to fit in the box. Then the plastic is rolled along the 100' length. This all means there are only folds every 30" which has been large enough for my marquetry work where I have used canvas.

These rolls are available in the paint department of the big box stores.

I have taped plastic to the cauls on occasion, not for the purpose of keeping them flat, but to speed up handling when assembling the entire package for glue-up. I do have a flip-top press, so sliding the work into the bag is not an issue for me. So, taping some things together may be helpful when working with a vacuum bag.



Good luck,
Charles



 
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Enrico Konig

Posts: 74

Joined: 2006-01-06
Location: Vancouver, BC

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Subject : RE: Protecting Canvas/Rubber from Glue
Posted : 2012-01-02 9:54 AM
Post #36542 - In reply to #36540

The glue does not, in my experience, stick to the natural gum rubber sheets, so that may be one solution.


 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: Protecting Canvas/Rubber from Glue
Posted : 2012-01-02 4:53 PM
Post #36543 - In reply to #36542

while I cant speak on the rubber process, the process i use is rather simple.
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture11-4.png

the attached photo shows the process, from the top down, 2 inch rigid foam, wax paper, crotch mahogany (or whatever) poplar for the secondary veneer, taped to 1/4 inch marlite which has a semi gloss plastic film face on masonite. next to that you will notice the poplar is at least one inch longer on both ends and the blue tape or whatever tape you use does not interfere with the face veneer, and the face veneer is at least 1/2 wider.

You can go straight into the press without removing the blue tape and putting the lay up on a separate platen, or you can use a different platen.

If you use the same platen, you can go straight from the press into a wide belt sander or sand the lay up right on the platen. if you send it through a wide belt sander or calibrated sander, instead of blue or masking tape use filament strapping tape which hold up better than blue or masking tape.

Because the face veneer is elevated by 1/32 or 1/42 higher than the poplar and tape the sander head should not hit the tape. it is also a good idea to run some tape down the length when using a wide belt, once the head starts to sand it will pull the lay up tight and want to tear tear along the grain were it was taped along the width



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