Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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mike mcnerney

Posts: 87

Joined: 2003-07-17
Location: ottawa ontario

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Subject : jointing BE maple
Posted : 2010-08-24 2:30 PM
Post #36154

I have a system on my table saw to joint my veneer. It generally does a good job but I am having trouble with this rotary cut BE maple, 30" long.
I am using a 10" 80 tooth freshly sharpend blade. It has a hold down that registers accurately each cut & I put a sacificial piece on the bottom each time.I have experimented with the height of the blade & I lean in the direction of having it just 1/8" above the stack of 3 veneers.
I even tried keeping the blade normal but running the stack backwards or outfeed to infeed. That did the best job yet but I still get 1 or 2 little crescents popping out, maybe .150 long by .015.
I know a lot are using the fesstool with good results. What kind of blade is on those?
Your feedback is appreciated & needed yesterday.
MM


 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: jointing BE maple
Posted : 2010-08-24 2:59 PM
Post #36155 - In reply to #36154

birdseye is notorious for problems, both trimming and pressing. maple in general for that matter. In my opinion a saw is to aggressive and I use a veneer saw. The crescents you refer too I assume are the "eyes"popping out of the veneer. very light cuts with a veneer saw should work better.


 
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Enrico Konig

Posts: 74

Joined: 2006-01-06
Location: Vancouver, BC

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Subject : RE: jointing BE maple
Posted : 2010-08-25 5:17 PM
Post #36156 - In reply to #36154

Hi Mike,
Yes I have had my share of problems with birdseye myself. Seems to depend on the batch more than anything -- some of it is so fragile, and often the best-looking stuff too. I do use the Festool (60 tooth ATB, if I remember correctly)and mostly have had success with it. Isn't foolproof though when it comes to difficult woods. I recently used some very brittle black walnut burl for a project and the only thing that allowed any cuts with any tool whatsoever without cracking or eyes breaking out was to use the veneer softener GF-20 first. Had perfect results then on the first cut with the Festool. Sometimes just running blue tape down the backside of each piece can really help (really burnish it on). Veneer tape on one side can be very effective too. And I too turn to a sharp veneer saw when I'm having problems with the power cutting tool. (None of those methods helped with the walnut burl though.)
The GF 20 is a bit of a commitment time-wise, but I find it's often more time-consuming in my head thinking about the necessary paper changes than it is in reality, and it really does make those difficult brittle woods so easy to work with.
Best of luck with it.


 
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mike mcnerney

Posts: 87

Joined: 2003-07-17
Location: ottawa ontario

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Subject : RE: jointing BE maple
Posted : 2010-08-26 8:21 AM
Post #36157 - In reply to #36156

Craig & Enrico,
Thanks for the tips. I guess I have to learn how to use the hand saw.
I ended up running it backwards through my TS very slowly with the 80 tooth & got a near perfect result & they are now glued up to the poly back.
cheers
Mike


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