Brad
Posts: 87
Joined: 2008-04-22
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My first attempts with the home brew did not work out great so I am a GF20 convert. I tried with both a Bubinga swirl and Makore Crotch, and after flattening/drying with the home brew it still wouldnt press into my router clamp properly for cutting. I did follow Darryl's recommendations, but, it still could have been my mixture. I really do not know. I will say that the Makore crotch turns out flat as a can be after the GF20 is applied (I have some pics if you like). I did find it messier to work with the home brew due to the glue and finding spots to hang up the screens for drying wasnt the handiest either in my space. With the GF20 I use paper towel once or twice and then toss it out. Thats just a cost of working with a burl/crotch material. The downside of the GF20 is you only have about 24hrs from application to getting the stock pressed, as you will notice the stock reverting to its wavy form and it starts to become harder to work with. Joe (woodworker) claims his brew last longer, but I didnt find that when I tried his. I am pretty sure his is the same as GF20, just labelled for him. In the end, you will probably have to try it out yourself. Veneer Systems will ship you some GF20 in short order.
As for re-softening, I have not found that to be a problem, but I am usually pretty careful to plan my project to avoid the added time/cost of re-softening. GF20 is not incredibly easy for me to get and the cost does add up a bit.
I have only tried a few burl/crotches thus far. The Bubinga swirl stock I have is a bit thicker and I still have not managed to get it flat enough. The Makore works out perfectly, and I just got in some Carpathian Burl that I know is going to work out perfectly flat too.
Brad
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