Don Stephan
Posts: 825
Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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Sorry for delayed response but been working late every night.
I'd suggest you start with a copy of Darryl Keil's 2nd video on working on curved surfaces, if you don't already have it.
You can build a form on which to bend the "panel" substrate, although I'd make the "panel" the full width of the drawer front plus perhaps 3/4" on all sides. You'll have to experiment with MDF to see if you can find a sufficiently thin sheet that will bend to your desired radius, and use one of the rigid glue options mentioned in the above video.
After pressing the panel I'd veneer both sides. Then you can build up the "frame" on top of the panel, but I think you'd have to use one piece (a hollow rectangle) for each layer building up the frame, rather than four pieces (rails and styles) to avoid joint telegraphing. Try to build the drawer fronts carefully so that you keep a reference edge throughout.
After the frame is built up, then apply a surface veneer. Trimming of the four edges likely will require a form to hold it level will passing by the table saw blade. You might find it easiest to build an accurate table saw sled to keep the corners at 90 degrees if your miter gauge isn't up to the task. (Build the sled as large as you can, because you'll use it constantly in the future.)
After the drawer front is cut to final size you can veneer the outer edges.
I think bodeliction molding would cover the inside surface of your "frame" as well as come up onto the top of the frame so that the inside edge of the frame doesn't have to be perfect.
This sounds like a substantial challenge, which is perhaps why I've never seen frame and panel drawer fronts. Might be worth making one start to finish and then evaluate if feasible.
Good luck with it.
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