Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-02-12 2:48 PM
3 replies, 1809 viewings

 
back
Navigate threads:
< Previous Thread :: Next Thread >
 
^ Top
Dwolf

Posts: 34

Joined: 2008-07-24

User Profile
 
Subject : Advice on curved door
Posted : 2008-08-08 6:51 PM
Post #34807

I'm building a Deco style piece..
http://www.jlfurniture.com/Contact/samples/samples.html
I put up two pictures. One of a piece of furniture which basically has the doors I am going to build and the other of a drawing of a top view of this door. My first thought is just to build a form and laminate the whole door. My concern with that is having a nice flat door that does not have any issues. Looks like I would need 1/16" bending ply. 1/8" seemed tough on that radius, which is roughly 2 3/4" I don't have alot of bending experience.. The other thought was to build a torsion box type door... with the end by the curve many layers of mdf and shape the curve on the tablesaw and then hand tools. Maybe add a layer of yorkite and then veneer it.. The project calls for Chestnut Burl. So those so far are the two ideas I have for these doors.. what's your thoughts and ideas..
Thanks Joel

Are there other worthy forums to post this ??



 
^ Top
Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

User Profile
 
Subject : RE: Advice on curved door
Posted : 2008-08-08 8:19 PM
Post #34808 - In reply to #34807

D:

I agree with you that this door component presents lots of challenges. My suggestion would be to decide on either an inside or an outside form, whichever seems to allow the easiest tweaking if the resultant door "has issues." Make the form to allow for at least 2" additional at the hinge and at the opposite side (and one inch at the top and bottom edges) and cut the laminates one at a time to see how to keep adding to the width as they accumulate. Once you've cut the laminates for the first go you'll know how long to cut them on following tries.

Plan a strategy to square up the four sides and cut to length. After the first door is cured you'll be able to see if there is any twist and tweak the form accordingly.

If bending ply won't work, you could use 1/16" thick sheets of veneer, but you wouldn't be able to alternate the grain direction.

Alternatively, you could use the most stable straightgrained lumber available and build the door using narrow strips. On the curve the strips (staves) could all be cut to the same angle which might be simpler than making the form. After the core's glue is cured, you could use a curved scraper, curved sandpaper backing plate, . . . to shape the inside and outside. The issue is that you'll be applying veneer to a solid core.

My concern with MDF would be holding the hinge screws over the long haul.


 
^ Top
Dwolf

Posts: 34

Joined: 2008-07-24

User Profile
 
Subject : RE: Advice on curved door
Posted : 2008-08-08 8:23 PM
Post #34809 - In reply to #34808

I would make sure that there is solid wood where the screws will go... I might also use a chrome piano hinge (client loves chrome)


 
^ Top
Jeff Patrick


Joined: 2004-04-15
Location: Bainbridge Island, WA

User Profile
 
Subject : RE: Advice on curved door
Posted : 2008-08-08 8:40 PM
Post #34811 - In reply to #34807

I haven't done a curve that tight either. So I would make an inside form and lay-up a sample door blank. You will probably have to extend the short leg to allow the press some area to act on... create a lever arm. This extra can be trimmed off before the show veneers are applied using the same form. After making the sample, put it to some strength tests: stand on it, throw it about, attach hinges and then slam it shut a bunch of times, etc... You get the point. I'd be sure to use Unibond or similar for something like this.

You might post on the Fine Woodworking Magazine forum, "Knots."


back
Navigate threads:
< Previous Thread :: Next Thread >

Legend      Notification  
Administrator
Forum Moderator
Registered User
Unregistered User
Toggle e-mail notification


Logo by MAZY
Running MegaBBS ASP Forum Software v1.5.14b public beta