Don Stephan
Posts: 825
Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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Not sure but I think the first question addresses existing leaks in your frame press? If so, how old is the material, what is its thickness and what type (vinyl, poly, other)?
I've pressed several panels with resin coated honeycomb core without problem. Notes I've collected over the years from this forum regarding honeycomb follow:
"Resin coated paper honeycomb can be used to make a strong but lightweight panel, sometimes called a torsion box.
"Honeycomb can be skinned with any rigid material in any thickness all the way down to just plastic laminate, but skins under 1/4" can create a panel that has a hollow tinny sound. For table tops a minimum skin of 1/4” is recommended.
"Panels must have some kind of solid border or edging around the edges to prevent the honeycomb from crushing, and to provide a surface to adhere the edging to. This edging can be solid wood, plywood, particle board or MDF. Honeycomb has a small amount of compression, so the edging should be slightly thinner than the honeycomb.
"Although white or yellow glues can be used to bond the honeycomb to the skins, urea resin glue is the best choice for a premium stable panel.
"When using a vacuum press to lay up the panel be sure to turn the vacuum level down to around 15” HG on the gauge. A vacuum press can crush honeycomb at full vacuum. It will not do this immediately, but a half an hour to an hour later the panel may be crushed in the middle area. Once the panel has been pressed and thoroughly dry, further pressing on that panel can be done at full vacuum.
"After the panel is first pressed be sure to stand it up on its edge to permit air flow to both sides for at least 12 hours. A panel laid down on one side will not allow the moisture inside to get out evenly and will usually warp.
"If the desired thickness cannot be reached with one sheet of honeycomb, it can be stacked in multiple layers to achieve thicker panels. A skin of some kind must be used between layers of honeycomb. This skin can be as thin as possible, but something must be used between each layer of honeycomb. For a stable panel it is best to use the same thickness honeycomb for all layers.
"Thickness of the outer skins of the panel doesn’t dramatically affect strength of the panel. Tricel Honeycomb literature says the thicker the honeycomb (single layer), the greater the overall strength of the panel, so 1” honeycomb core stronger than 3/4” honeycomb core stronger than 1/2” honeycomb core.
"If the project requires seaming a skin, insert a 1” wide piece of solid wood in the honeycomb under the seam. If veneering the skin, use a two ply veneer to keep the seam from telegraphing through.
"In a simple panel, the thicker the layer of honeycomb stronger the panel. A panel with a 1” honeycomb core will be stronger than a panel with a 3/4" honeycomb core, which will be stronger than a panel with a 1/2" honeycomb core (assuming identical skins).
"The thickness of the outer skins doesn’t dramatically affect the strength of the panel.
"A panel at the approximate same thickness will be stronger with two layers of honeycomb over one. For example, a panel with a core of two layers of 1/2" honeycomb separated by a thin plywood skin them will be stronger than a panel with a core consisting of a single 1" honeycomb."
I've never used powdered urea formaldehyde to which water is added, only two part UF glues such as Unibond and Pro-Glue. Haven't had a problem with these glue flashing off. I've had great success spreading these glues with black form paint roller pads I've purchased at www.brush.com and try to apply just enough glue so that if I drag my finger through a slight ridge of glue is left at each side.
Hope this helps.
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