Darryl Keil Last Activity 2024-10-10 3:42 PM
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : Caul Alternative?
Posted : 2005-10-30 9:43 AM
Post #32512

I've been experimenting with something new.

Instead of using hardboard with the edges rounded every time that I press something, I've been slipping little cork blocks on the corners of the piece.

I'm sick of buying hardboard and sizing it down, sick of cutting down a caul to make a smaller one, and sick of rounding the edges everytime that I need to use a new one.

I went to Office Max and bought some cork sheet that is 3/16th" thick. I then used contact cement to mount these sheets onto 1/8" hardboard, and cut them into squares on the tablesaw.

Then the cork squares get double-stick taped onto the corners of the material being pressed. When the press reaches full pressure, the cork gives a little, but still has the strength to keep the bag off the sharp corners.

So my question - is the sole purpose of cauls to keep the bag from being punctured, or do they also help to equalize pressure? Will my little cork blocks (5/16" thick) create more pressure on the corners? If so, will it really make a big difference?

It's a nice, quick alternative to cutting and preparing a new caul every time that do a pressing. What's the downside?


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : Caul Alternative
Posted : 2005-10-30 10:24 AM
Post #32513 - In reply to #32512

A couple thoughts. About a year ago I switched from using masking tape to clear packing tape to hold veneer and substrate aligned. Noticed Paul Schurch used clear tape on his video and remembered a couple times finding the veneer seemed somewhat compressed under the strips of masking tape. I may have been imagining things, since masking tape is NOT very thick. Your cork is much thicker in comparison, so I'd wonder about increased compression under it. There also will be (ever so slight) section around the edges of the cork where the bag will be held off the veneer by the thickness of the cork. Possibility of glue starving under the cork and glue puddling around the edges of the cork. Might not ever be a problem unless aiming for a high gloss buffed finish. I wonder if the primary advantage of a caul is to even out the adhesive under the veneer, which only a solid sheet could do.

Another alternative to dubbing caul corners would be rubber roofing membrane. You might be able to get economical pieces of ends of rolls from roofing distribution company in your area. I would guess a much larger piece of rubber membrane could be laid over the top caul, extending out in all directions over the grooved platen, would not have any impact on the clamping process and the rubber membrane would protect the bag from the sharp corners of the caul. You could replace the top caul with the rubber membrane, but again I think glue puddling would be a possibility. I think rubber membrane is used when combining knife-cut veneers of differing thicknesses in a single pressing.

Yoda-Vac back from the Far East yet?


 
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Earl

Posts: 75

Joined: 2003-12-04
Location: Pensacola FL

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Subject : RE: Caul Alternative?
Posted : 2005-10-30 10:33 AM
Post #32514 - In reply to #32512

Brian,

This something you may have to find out for yourself, by trial and error. My take on cauls, I use one whenever possible. I feel like it evens the pressure out better and flattens the veneer into the glue. Even on curves, if possible, I like a caul.

If you do a couple of test panels, one with and without a caul, you can decide for yourself if the results suit you.


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: Caul Alternative?
Posted : 2005-10-30 12:12 PM
Post #32516 - In reply to #32514

Thanks for the responses...

Actually, I used the cork cauls for the first time today.

I was laminating two 3/4" pieces of plywood together to make double-thinkness for a jig that I'm constructing.

Don, you have a good point regarding the fact that the hardboard could leave a pretty good impression in the veneer. In this particular case today, I was using maple plywood, and there's no indentation. Although I don't think that I would trust the blocks not to leave in impression on a real important project.

So maybe I'll put a thin layer of cork on the bottom? Have a piece of cork on the bottom and top, with hardboard in the middle. Still experimenting...

I think that the answer is that these little blocks are a good quick solution on glue-ups that are not critical, like today. But when it comes to primo-furniture projects, it probably pays to use cauls....both for the risk of indenting the piece, as well as even glue coverage....


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