Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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Mark Lindsey

 
Subject : Replace teak veneer in boat
Posted : 2004-03-27 10:48 PM
Post #31394
I need to replace some teak veneer in my boat. I see no way that I can
vacuum press the veneer in place. How can I get the veneer to "grab" and
lie flat against the substrate on a vertical wall? Also, the reason for the
replacement is previous exposure to water. I am sealing all leaks so there
will not be water, at least initially, but I am in a wet and cold
environment and the boat is pretty old, so at some point it is possible to
expect some water exposure from behind the veneer. Is there an adhesive
that might do better than others given these parameters? In spite of its
limitations, might contact cement be a possible candidate for this
application?

Also, I have removed some of the delaminated substrate material, varying
form 1/8" to 1/4" deep. Can these areas be filled with something that can
be troweled and sanded or should I get some thin plywood and cut it to size?
Delaminated area is about 2 square feet, irregular.

Thanks,
Mark Lindsey
Anchorage, Alaska
aklindseys@cs.com


 
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Jason Stumpf

 
Subject : RE: Replace teak veneer in boat
Posted : 2004-03-29 2:30 PM
Post #31396 - In reply to #31394
mark,
try setting yourself up like many boatbuilders set up for cold-moulding wood hulls: glue is applied to the substrate, apply your veneer, lay on a mat that will function as a caul, lay on some screen (such as they have for sale on the vacupress website) so the air will evacuate evenly, lay on a sheet of vinyl with a nipple placed in the center. the edges of the vinyl get taped down to the working surface to seal it off, and the vacuum press gets connected to the nipple, and away we go...

keep in mind too, that most boatbuilders (and probably all wooden boatbuiders) will admit that boats are not the best location for veneer. regarding the bad substrate, you must fix that if you want the new veneer to look right, (and/or stay in place!) can you remove the substrate and replace it? or use a router to cut out the bad area and glue in new plywood? as a last resort, you may get away with fairing the area with thickened epoxy and veneering over that. good luck, hope this helps a bit...
jason



 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Replace teak veneer in boat
Posted : 2004-03-29 7:56 PM
Post #31397 - In reply to #31394
Mark,

Jason explains the process for on site pressing very well so I wont repeat that. Do be aware that you will need to run your pump continuously as this kind of bagging is usually too leaking for a auto cycling mode.

For filling your voids, epoxy can be mixed with "micro balloons" designed for use with epoxy to make a fairly light weight filler. You could also consider polyurethane glue for the veneering, it handles moisture very well and will bleed through less than epoxy.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Mark Lindsey

 
Subject : RE: Replace teak veneer in boat
Posted : 2004-04-01 2:40 PM
Post #31408 - In reply to #31394
Thanks for both responses. After considering this further, I'm going to punt on the veneer and try something easier, possibly formica or paint. I hate to give up the ambience of the veneer but I am not equipped to do the job and the pervasive moisture problems are no small factor.

Thanks again for sharing your know how.

Mark Lindsey
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