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Darryl Keil
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: : Dear Joe,: : I can see why you want to two ply before trimming the veneer. I would say go ahead with it although your veneer joint will be going through two layers instead of one. This may not be optimum but it will be acceptable. : : Its better to two ply both sides even if one veneer is a little thinner than the face side veneer. It will be more balanced this way even if the total thickness is not exactly the same. I do try to keep the veneer thickness the same if I can but it does not alway work out that way.: : Nothing wrong with plastic covered calls, just watch out for the thicker 6 mil plastic from the lumber yard. I have seen it with little lumps in the surface which will leave dents in your veneer. 4mil or less seems to be fine. I often use a 1/8" melamine, cheap shower stall masonite call Abatibi which is quite inexpensive and has a nice thick coating, check it out if you can find it.: : Sincerely: : Darryl Keil: : : : : I've got some brittle burl veneer to work (treatment not needed......it's flat, just touchy) and intend to add a backer to it, : : : forming a two ply situation. It would seem to me that by gluing up the two plies prior to cutting the burl to size, that cutting , : : : shooting and generally handling the veneer would be much safer. Any flaw in this logic?: : : The veneer for the backs of the doors, opposite the burled two ply, is quite thick for veneer (1/32"). Is it more important to : : : maitain two ply balance as opposed to gauging the thickness of the material applied to each side. The two ply burl may be : : : close to the same thickness as one ply on the back. Two ply regardless of thickness?: : : Mealamine for cauls is great but not cheap enough. If I put some 4 mil plastic between the veneer and some MDF cauls will I : : : be ok? Any worries or heads up with this process? : Darryl: Thanks for the info. The response to the question about two ply glue up prior to trimming, shooting and taping didn't receive the rousing: support I'd hoped it would. What's the down side to seaming through a double layer of veneer?Dear Joe,The seam may have a greater tendency to open up ever so slightly at the joint. Since veneer wants to move just like solid wood, a double joint has that much more power to do so, mind you, we are talking about small amounts here, your joint may be just fine. It will partly depend on how well the glue can saturate up into the seam. One thing you could do is to fold the joint back after you have tape it, apply a small bead of yellow glue along the joint and lay it back flat again, wiping off the excess squeeze out. This will glue your veneer joint together for better assurance. Also, if this is a side panel or a door I wouldnt sweat it, but if its going to be a table top with a fancy finish you may want to be more cautious.SincerelyDarryl Keil
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