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Darryl Keil
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Dear Fred,There is no doubt that polyurethane's are thick and a pain to spread for veneer work. I use a piece a plastic laminate to spread it and I do it as thinly as possible because your right itdoes expand excessively. If I had to spread it on a large area I would be discouraged but juston the seam area of a cylinder, thats managable. As far as what brand, I find there all about the same, although the manufactures might disagree. Polyurethane dont require O2 to cure, they require H2O, which they pick up fromthe atmosphere. The drier the air the longer the set time.SincerelyDarryl Keil: Darryl:: as a follow up question concerning the polyurethane glue...this glue seems viscous and also seems to expand unconfined when I've used it in woodworking applications. I've only used PL polyurethane, haven't tried Gorilla glue yet. Is there a big difference between formulations out there? Do other brands spread better? And what do you use as a spreading tool? I understood your point about using the poly only on the last glue-up. Perhaps what I a missing is that the poly glues stay confined during curing in the vacuum...I take it they do not require O2 to react?: Insofar as the suitablity of Baltic Birch for the door panel substrate, thats not an issue here in San Diego ...door is relatively sheltered from both sun and elements, door panels will be completely finished and sealed prior to final assembly and our yearly temperature fluctuation is a joke (I used to live in Syracuse, so I know weather).. : Thanks for your insightful information.: Fred: : Dear Fred,: : Baltic birch makes and excellent substrate and there is no need to cross band it, as long as: : you run the face veneer perpendicular to the baltic birch veneer. The only thing I am not sure: : of is what kind of glue they use in the baltic birch, since your door is exterior.: : As far as the non-water based glue for the cylinder lay-up I recommend the polyurethane over: : the epoxy because epoxy is such a high saturator, the bleed thru is excessive. As far as: : which polyurethane to use, it really does not matter. Titebond makes one, so does Borden,: : and there is Gorilla glue, you pick.: : One bit of clarification on the cylinder glue up, the polyurethan is only nessesary on the second: : glueing. Regular white or yellow glue can be used for the first pressing.: : Sincerely: : Darryl Keil : : : I am planning on building some exterior doors using veneered panels : : : in hardwood rail and stile doors. Panels will be fully finished and : : : sealed prior to door glue up. My question is, is it necessary to : : : provide a crossbanded backing veneer over my substrate (under my : : : finish veneer)?. I plan on using a urea-formaldahyde glue. I am : : : planning on using 1/2" baltic birch as substrate. Anyone w/ any : : : experience w/ this out there?: : : Also, unrelated matter: previous post response by Darryl refer to : : : using non-water based epoxy or polyurethane when gluing up : : : cylinders, ...what brands do you recommend for either?
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