Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-05-12 11:03 AM
3 replies, 1324 viewings
 
back
Navigate threads:
< Previous Thread :: Next Thread >
 
^ Top
Dean

 
Subject : Paper Backed Veneer
Posted : 2002-06-22 9:28 PM
Post #29216
I am trying to learn as much a possible before attempting my first job using veneer. I bought 3 videos from Vacu Press but not much was mentioned about paper backed veneer. What is paper backed veneer used for? Is it glued down paper to substrate or is paper up? If paper is up, do you then peel the paper off or must it be sanded off or what? Thank You!!!



 
^ Top
John Randazzo

 
Subject : Paper Backed Veneer
Posted : 2002-06-23 10:06 AM
Post #29219 - In reply to #29216
: I am trying to learn as much a possible before attempting my first job using veneer. I bought 3 videos from Vacu Press but : not much was mentioned about paper backed veneer. What is paper backed veneer used for? Is it glued down paper to : substrate or is paper up? If paper is up, do you then peel the paper off or must it be sanded off or what? Thank You!!! Dean, The reason paperback veneer delaminates using contact cement is because it was not pressed properly ,and or, the finish was applied too heavily or too soon.If you have a vacuum press, then the paperback veneer can be glued down using pva or urea resin glues and that will solve the delaminatng problem all together. Hope this helps, John.




 
^ Top
Peter Ness

 
Subject : Paper Backed Veneer
Posted : 2002-06-23 2:40 AM
Post #29218 - In reply to #29216
Paper back veneer is very thin, usually thinner than "raw" veneer flitches (which are just the wood). The very thin wood face is preglued to a paper backing - you glue the paper backing down on your wood.Paper back veneer is usually available in the more common woods and comes in standard sheet sizes 2x8, 4 x 8 etc. Because it is made from veneer flitches bonded to a paper backing, the sheet size is made up of pieces matched at the factory - be aware that someone else is matching up the pieces, ie. oak may not matter but I have seen the worst walnut burl matchup ever on paperback.The drawbacks of paperback is that the wood layer is so thin you practically have nothing to sand, more so than "raw" veneer flitches. If you use any heavy finish, the wood veneer can separate from the paper backing - here as well as between the substrate and paper back.So why is it made? - it is easy to do and you can glue it down with contact cement. Also you dont have to tape up larger sheets from smaller flitches. I can tell you from expensive personal experience it often delaminates or bubbles.If you bought the videos and are going to get a vacuum press, you could use the paperback veneer, just remember that it is very thin when finishing (sand extremely little and use finish sparingly - forget about staining it - everytime I tried it delaminated, but I was using contact cement without a press.)I wouldn't recommend using it especially if you are doing smaller items or are doing flat work - there is more variety and choice with flitches than with the paperback. Flitches are also cheaper and have nicer faces (esp. burls).Hope this helps




 
^ Top
Stumper

 
Subject : Paper Backed Veneer
Posted : 2002-07-04 6:37 PM
Post #29252 - In reply to #29218
: Paper back veneer is very thin, usually thinner than "raw" veneer flitches (which are just the wood). The very thin wood face is preglued to a paper backing - you glue the paper backing down on your wood.: Paper back veneer is usually available in the more common woods and comes in standard sheet sizes 2x8, 4 x 8 etc. Because it is made from veneer flitches bonded to a paper backing, the sheet size is made up of pieces matched at the factory - be aware that someone else is matching up the pieces, ie. oak may not matter but I have seen the worst walnut burl matchup ever on paperback.: The drawbacks of paperback is that the wood layer is so thin you practically have nothing to sand, more so than "raw" veneer flitches. If you use any heavy finish, the wood veneer can separate from the paper backing - here as well as between the substrate and paper back.: So why is it made? - it is easy to do and you can glue it down with contact cement. Also you dont have to tape up larger sheets from smaller flitches. I can tell you from expensive personal experience it often delaminates or bubbles.: If you bought the videos and are going to get a vacuum press, you could use the paperback veneer, just remember that it is very thin when finishing (sand extremely little and use finish sparingly - forget about staining it - everytime I tried it delaminated, but I was using contact cement without a press.): I wouldn't recommend using it especially if you are doing smaller items or are doing flat work - there is more variety and choice with flitches than with the paperback. Flitches are also cheaper and have nicer faces (esp. burls).: Hope this helpsWhat kind of problems could I expect if I use the paper-backed stuff and glue it paper side out?
back
Navigate threads:
< Previous Thread :: Next Thread >
Legend      Notification  
Administrator
Forum Moderator
Registered User
Unregistered User
 Toggle e-mail notification


Logo by MAZY
Running MegaBBS ASP Forum Software v1.5.14b public beta